Kitchen gadgets reflect the times
They simplify some tasks, but a sharp knife justmight do.
Berries are hot this NEWYORK— year, Scott Goldsmithwas saying on a recent rain-flecked Friday, brandishing a bright red plastic, wagon wheel-shaped gizmo called a PushBerry, which aims to hull and slice your strawberries in one go.
Avocados, still hot, he added, gesturing at the Flexicado and the Avoquado — two of themany slicers and pitters for sale in his store, all rendered in acid green plastic (designers of kitchen gadgets seem to go in for biomimicry). As for tenacious kale, this decade’s celebrity green, its grooming aids now include the Looseleaf and the Swiftstrip, otherwise known as kale leaf strippers, the solution to a problem you might not know you had.
Goldsmith, 61, is the thirdgeneration owner of S. Feldman Housewares — a glittering bazaar onManhattan’s Upper East Side — and an impresario of kitchen gadgetry. His shelveswere bursting with esoterica like the billowy yellowsilicone Food Pod (a combination steamer and colander that looks like vegetation imagined by the production designers of “Star Trek,” $14.99); the SpreadTHATtitanium butter knife (“It’s pretty cool,” Goldsmith said. “It uses the heat of your hands. I don’t eatmuch butter, but I don’t discriminate,” $19.95); onion goggles ($19.95); and sequined aprons ($120) that were a big hit last Christmas.
Howdo youwash the aprons? “I have no idea,” he said.
Goldsmith’s long retail career spans decades of gadgetry — including truffle shavers and cherry pitters, Salad Shooters
Author of“Consider the Fork: A History of HowWe Cook and Eat”
‘Thebirthof a new gadget often gives rise to zealous overuse, until the noveltywears off.’ BeeWilson
and spiralizers — and traces a history of ingenuity, optimism and sheer whimsy. If the invention of defoliating devices for cruciferous vegetables causes you to think the makers of kitchen gadgets have finally and collectively lost their minds, Goldsmith will remindyouthathis storehas been in business since 1929.
“Between you and me,” he said, “most of these things you can do with a knife.”
To an industrial designer, the universe of possible kitchen tools is infinite. Very fewobjectswould not benefit from a good rethinking, said Tucker Viemeister, a founder of Smart Design, among other companies, who has reimagined items as complex as a toaster, and as simple as a potato peeler.
In 1990, when Smart Design’s OxoGoodGrippeeler hit themarket, with its fat, comfy rubber handle and fixed blade, it was a kind of revolution. “On the one hand, designers are really optimistic because they think they canmake things better,” he said. “On the other hand, we think everything is wrong or broken.”
In “Consider the Fork: A History of How We Cook and Eat” (2012), Bee Wilson, the English food writer, explored how technology, social mores and food fashions have long collided to create a pageantry of gizmos.
New technologies rendered entire categories obsolete; when stoves replaced the open hearth, the hasteners, spits, spit jacks and spit dogs that attended them vanished. Technology has altered the meal itself. After the Cuisinart, we were swimming in purées, a situation Wilson said had contributed to the robust artisanal fare of today, prized because “some-
one’s hand had been tired out making it.”
As shewrote, “The birth of a newgadget often gives rise to zealous overuse, until the noveltywears off.”
She continued, “To the woman who has just acquired an electric blender, the whole world looks like soup.”
In terms of pure function, Wilson said recently, “very few new gadgets are any improvement on a sharp knife, a good source of heat and a dexterous pair of hands.”
“But they reflect our obsessions and wants at any given time,” she added. “The Victorians had slaw cutters, which most of us today manage without, because shredded cabbage is not such a thing. The person who owns a kale stripper is confirming to themselves that kale is a big part of his or her life.”
A decade ago, “half the items for sale in cookware shops seemed to be cupcake-related,” she said.
“But nowwe havemoved on. Veganism seems to be wheremuch of our cooking desire has moved, hence the incredible success of the spiralizer. When they started appearing a couple of years ago, I felt that spiralizers were destined for immediate obsolescence, but Iwas completely wrong. Maybe it’s because of low-carb diets or maybe it’s the rise of #plantbased on Instagram, but it turns out that the ability to turn a beet or zucchini into something resembling telephone wire speaks to more people than I ever knew.”
Christopher Kimball, the determinedly skeptical cooking program host and co-founder of two food networks based in Boston, America’s Test Kitchen and Milk Street, identified three categories of kitchen gadgets: Completely Idiotic Useless Objects, Things That Are Not Worth the Storage Space, and Things That Seem Practical But You Could Actually Do Better With a Knife.
“A well-designed tool is immensely valuable,” Kimball said. “But for the specialty items you’re only going to use once amonth, howmuch more work is it not to use it?”
Yet Kimball i s not immune to the siren songs ofsomegizmos. Afewyears ago, at the International Home and Housewares Show, the food world’s annual gadgetfest held each March in Chicago, Kimball found himself unexpectedly moved by the BeepEgg, an adorable eggshaped timer you boilwith your eggs. When they have reached the desired degree of doneness — soft, hard or in between — BeepEgg plays a tune (like “Killing Me Softly” for soft boiled).
Kimball also acknowledged having bought every iteration of egg poacher over the years, even though, as he said, “at the end of the day, it actually isn’t that hard to cook an egg.”
In 2016, the last year for which sales figures are available, kitchen tools and accessories represented more than 13 percent of the totalhousewarespie, which was $87.1 billion, according to the InternationalHousewares Association State of the Industry Report, a 6 percent increase over 2015.
AmandaHesser, the food writer and co-founder and chief executive of Food52, the kitchen and homewebsite, is continually evaluating products like these as her company develops its own for sale. She is an expert on obsolescence, a gimlet-eyed judge of what might have legs. But even Hesser has amisfit drawer in her kitchen, a mini-museum of the gadgetry of yore. Herparticular affliction is melon ballers, including one model with a pea-size scoop (tantalizing for “The Borrowers,” perhaps, but otherwise useless). She also has an egg topper, which slices off the caps of eggs with Gallic precision, a butter curler and a shrimp deveiner.
Despite a soft spot for such arcana, Hesser is not tempted by certain new trends.
“Once you go down the road of having a kale leaf stripper,” she said, “where do you draw the line? This is something we talk a lot about in our reviews. With kitchen manufacturers, there is this tendency to get so detailed and so tailored with their products, everyone would need 5,000-square-foot kitchens. Not to mention you’re missing out on the pleasure of ripping kale off its stem. You’re letting the tool have all the fun.”