Dayton Daily News

These enchiladas don’t require oven time

- By Bonnie S. Benwick

When you happen upon a recipe ingredient list that is divided into subcategor­ies, do you turn the page or simply hit NEXT? Forthe-This, For-the-That often involve processes that may overmatch the energy you have to spend on a weeknight meal.

I think we’re in safe territory with these rather casual enchiladas. Even though multiple steps and at least a half-hour of baking time are typically required to make filled, rolled tortillas, these are done in 40 minutes tops — start to finish, no oven. And the sauce doesn’t come from a can. But there are subcategor­ies, so hang in there.

While dried chile peppers are softening in hot water, you can complete the shrimp filling. As soon as those peppers and their fellow components are pureed into a sauce, you use that sauce to coat each tortilla. They, in turn, spend a couple of minutes getting griddled until they’re fragrant and soft, their coating a bit caramelize­d in spots.

Distribute the red tortillas among warmed plates and spoon the filling on one side. Fold, or roll, and allow everyone at the table to customize as they see fit: with shredded lettuce, more sauce, cilantro and queso fresco. For the Win.

RED SHRIMP ENCHILADAS

Serve with crema or sour cream, crumbled queso fresco, shaved iceberg lettuce and chopped cilantro.

The dried chiles are available at Latin markets, and on the internatio­nal aisle and in the produce department of some larger supermarke­ts. You may have some sauce left over, which can be refrigerat­ed for up to 5 days. Stir well before using.

Adapted from “Nopalito: A Mexican Kitchen,” by Gonzalo Guzman with Stacy Adimando (Penguin/Random House, 2017).

FOR THE ENCHILADAS 2 dried mulato chiles (dried poblanos; may substitute ancho chiles, see headnote)

2 dried guajillo chiles (see

headnote)

Boiling water

¼ white onion

2 cloves garlic

6 ounces (¾ cup) no-saltadded, canned diced tomatoes and their juices

½ teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon ground cumin Kosher salt

Canola oil or rice bran oil,

for the pan

6 to 8 good-quality soft

corn tortillas

FOR THE FILLING

1 white onion

2 cloves garlic

1 jalapeño pepper

¼ cup rice bran or canola oil Kosher salt

2 cups no-salt-added, canned tomatoes and their juices

1 pound medium-to-large peeled, deveined raw shrimp

For the enchiladas: Stem and seed the chiles. Place in a medium heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water. Let soak for about 20 minutes, until softened.

Meanwhile, make the filling: Finely chop the onion and garlic. Stem and seed the jalapeño, then cut into small dice.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the onion, garlic and jalapeño, stirring to coat. Season lightly with salt. Cook for about 5 minutes, until softened, then stir in the tomatoes and their juices. Once the mixture begins bubbling, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 10 to 12 minutes, so some of the liquid reduces.

Coarsely chop the shrimp, then season them lightly with salt. Add to the skillet and use a large wooden spoon to mash some of them. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, just until evenly opaque. Turn off the heat.

Drain the chiles, reserving 1/4 cup of their soaking water. Tear the chiles and place them in a food processor. Chop the onion and garlic, adding those ingredient­s to the chiles as you work. Add the tomatoes and their juices, the oregano, cumin and a pinch of salt; puree until smooth, adding some of the reserved soaking water, as needed. The yield is about 2 cups. Pour into a wide, shallow bowl.

Heat a few teaspoons of oil on a griddle or in a large, separate skillet over medium-high heat.

Working in batches, coat both sides of each tortilla in the red sauce on the plate, then transfer to the skillet and fry for about 30 seconds. Use tongs to turn it over, then cook on the second side for about 30 seconds. Transfer to individual plates (preferably warmed).

Fill a red tortilla with 1/2 to 3/4 cup of the shrimp filling, depending on how many you’re serving.

Fold the tortilla over, like a taco, or roll it loosely. Repeat to use all the tortillas and filling. (You may have some sauce left over; see the headnote.) Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Serve warm or at room temperatur­e with the garnishes mentioned in the headnote. Per serving (based on 6, using half the sauce): 300 calories, 18 g protein, 27 g carbohydra­tes, 13 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 120 mg cholestero­l, 150 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 6 g sugar.

There are a lot of times when I haven’t pumped the brakes and stopped to take a deep breath.

It was that time when I screamed back at a motorist who raged at me because I was following traffic laws.

It was that time when I rolled my eyes at the grocery store worker moving as slow as molasses while scanning my items.

It was that time I snapped back at a “sort of ” friend on Facebook, knowing all the time that it and the argument was pointless in the grand scheme of things.

I could go on.

It was easier to react than it was not to react with anger or sass.

That doesn’t make it right.

These days it seems you can’t say or type one word to another person without that person throwing down the hammer.

“Releasing the Kraken” is not hard when the Kraken (Google giant sea monster from”Clash of the Titans”) is right under the surface.

What’s harder is keeping the Kraken under control and realizing that the Kraken is nearly always overkill (in that killing is what he does).

At least nine times out of ten, the best course — if not the easiest course — is to pump those brakes, take a deep breath and let it go.

Make no mistake, there ARE times when the Kraken is very much needed, but our friend the Kraken is needed less than one percent of the time.

Most of the time the Kraken makes a mountain out of a molehill. The Kraken has a way of getting out of hand and is very hard to kill once it gets going.

Medusa heads aren’t just laying around (Google “how to kill the Kraken”).

What’s more powerful than salty words that can lead to salty action is rememberin­g that it is not worth it.

Snapping back, looking for fights and being “correct” all might be the nation’s newest obsession, but ultimately get you nowhere but down.

Save those energies for the people, places and things you can actually change.

It is impossible to convince a raging motorist that he is an idiot by yelling “you are an idiot.”

That grocery store clerk might have a good reason for moving so slow.

Smart Mouth

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In a new podcast episode, Robinson talks with cat daddy, TV host and all-around dogooder Rodney Veal. Get the latest podcast episodes delivered directly to you. Find it on iTunes, Google Play, Stitcher and other services. Learn more online at Dayton.com.

An actual conversati­on in which you exchange ideas with someone with a different perspectiv­e is better than a snapback any day.

Hinge your jaw, breathe and keep the Kraken underwater. Contact this reporter at 937225-2384 or email Amelia. Robinson@coxinc.com.

 ?? DEB LINDSEY/ WASHINGTON POST ?? Red Shrimp Enchiladas.
DEB LINDSEY/ WASHINGTON POST Red Shrimp Enchiladas.
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