Plants can’t catch a break — now it’s dry

I wasn’t going to write it. I wasn’t going to say it. In fact, I wasn’t even going to think it. However, I am being forced to face the facts.

It’s dry and we need some rain. As I write this column it hasn’t rained much in my area of the Miami Valley since July 18, and we are in need of it right now.

Of course, we knew this would happen, right? Spring and early summer were ridiculously wet, and now we have normal August weather.

Plants struggled because of the extremely wet spring, leaving root systems compromised. Some were severely damaged, particularly if they were submerged in water for a period of time. After that stress, now plants face very dry conditions. The result is what I am seeing on many landscape plants around the Miami Valley.

I have observed leaf scorch on some plants. This occurs when the roots can’t take up moisture as fast as the plant is losing moisture because of high temperatures and, perhaps, windy conditions.

The margins or edges of leaves turn brown and dry up. There is really nothing to do if you see these symptoms. If it remains dry, you might try soaking the root system to prevent further damage.

While this is not practical for large trees and shrubs, it is beneficial and probably necessary for those that are newly planted and species that are susceptible to leaf scorch. Japanese maples are notorious for leaf scorch symptoms when it gets dry like this.

I have also seen young trees (and some not so young) completely crash. In other words, all of the leaves on the tree turn brown.

It’s very difficult to diagnose exactly what happened in this situation as there could be numerous things going on. It might be stresses that have accumulated over time, along with the addition of the wet/ dry conditions into the mix and bam – trees are done.

My suggestion if you have a tree that exhibits these symptoms is to wait it out. See what happens this fall and maybe even next year. Sometimes they have enough energy in the root system to overcome complete leaf loss.

If you notice plants wilting and failing, consider heavy watering by using a hose on a slow trickle, soaking the entire root mass.

Don’t fertilize – this won’t help. If roots are compromised, fertilizing won’t help them at all. It’s almost like pouring salt on a wound.

Perennials, annuals and vegetables may all need your attention. The most important factor when watering is give the plants sufficient water for the root system.

Lawns can go dormant for up to three weeks without problems; however, after three weeks the crowns will begin to die. Give the crowns at least an inch of water to hydrate them. You don’t have to turn the grass green again, just don’t let the crowns die.

In the past, whenever I have written a column about needing rain, it usually rains before it goes to press. Let’s hope it happens this time!