Weeknight chicken challenge met with a hot griddle and fast recipes
Don’t let your chicken be bland and dry.
At least one day a week, chicken factors into our dinner plans. Turns out, we are not alone. Chicken is the No. 1 source of protein in the U.S. and in 2018 we ate more than 93.5 pounds per capita, according to the National Chicken Council.
Around our house, we cook most of our per capita chicken. On the occasion that I purchase fully-cooked chicken, I’m usually disappointed. More often than not, it’s bland and dry.
So the weeknight chicken challenge is this: Moistness and more flavor, despite little time.
Most of the year, the charcoal grill is my preferred chicken cooking method for maximum flavor and speed. However, weather and the time to set up the grill often deter.
Instead, I turn to another favorite piece of cooking equipment — a relic from early in my cooking career called a Bayou Blackener No. 1111. This heavy, rectangular cast-iron griddle heats quickly on the stovetop (or in about 10 minutes in a 425 oven or hot grill).
The beauty of cast iron is in how hot it gets and then how well it retains heat — meaning faster cooking and better browning. Lodge Cast Iron and other manufacturers make a variety of affordable cast-iron griddles and skillets. Nonstick skillets prove more foolproof than cast iron, but know that they never get as hot as, or retain the heat as well as, cast iron.
Pan selected, let’s talk chicken. Buy the best you can afford — at grocery stores and butcher shops, I seek out natural chicken, free of antibiotics. Organic chicken from the butcher counter or sold frozen by the farmer at our local farmers market, always seems to taste best.
Chickens in general have grown in size over the years. Modern breeding, improved veterinary care and a steady supply of nutritious food, mean even organic chickens are larger. Today, most supermarket chickens weigh nearly double those that I learned to cook in my chef ’s apprenticeship days years ago.
I reserve roasting whole chickens, brined chicken and cut-up chicken on the bone for days when I have more time to cook. For our weeknight chicken challenge, boneless, skinless breasts win hands down. For clarification, when most BSCB (boneless, skinless, chicken breast) recipes refer to a chicken breast, they actually mean half of the chicken breast — there are two pieces per bird. Think about it.
Older recipes typically call for boneless, skinless chicken breast
halves weighing 4 to 6 ounces each. Somewhat thin, these small breast halves cook in less than 10 minutes. However, a super-informal survey of my area grocery stores reveals many prepackaged chicken breast halves weighing 10 to 14 ounces. So, I prefer to butterfly these huge chicken breasts to make them thinner (so they cook faster) and more uniform in thickness (so they cook evenly without drying).
To butterfly a large chicken breast half, put it on a cutting board with the thickest portion facing your sharp knife. Then slice horizontally in half about three-quarters of the way across. Open the chicken out like a book (or butterfly). Cover with a sheet of plastic wrap and lightly pound the breast to a uniform thickness — about ½inch. FYI, the pros call this a paillard — a term for a uniformly shaped, pounded thin piece of meat. You can cut the pounded chicken breast in half for easier handling.
When time is of the essence, substitute storebought chicken breast cutlets, which are simply slices of boneless breast about ½ inch thick. If the cutlets are thinner than ½ inch, be sure to reduce cooking time by a minute or two to prevent dryness.
Please don’t be afraid to use heat in the kitchen. Yes, of course, in the form of fresh chiles and chili powder. But, here, I’m talking about heat under the pan. Start with the empty pan or griddle on high heat and then turn it down to medium-high for cooking. This way you’ll certainly get beautiful browning and a bit of crustiness and avoid a bland unattractive meal.
As for dryness, set the timer, don’t overcook — chicken is done when it gives ever so gently when pressed with a fingertip. Add a swirl of flavorful fat, such as olive oil or butter to the chicken at the very end. Then, serve the chicken right away — resist the temptation to keep it warm for very long.
The griddle-seared chicken can be customized to suit any taste or season of the year. In late summer, I tuck garden-fresh tomatoes into everything I cook. In the recipe here, diced ripe tomatoes and marinated mozzarella turn Caprese-style salad into a main-course offering.
In the fall, roasted diced apples, onions and butternut squash make a delicious accompaniment. So does a bath of melted butter swirled in the pan after the chicken cooks, stirred while scraping up the browned bits — try adding some canned artichoke hearts and 1 or 2 tablespoons of drained capers. I can’t resist a sandwich made with hot, freshly griddled chicken breast on whole grain toast with a smear of avocado and a handful of arugula.
The recipes that follow can be cut in half. But whenever possible, I like to cook enough for the meal at hand, plus enough for a few leftovers to add later to salads, soups, stir-fries and rice bowls.
QUICK-GRIDDLED CHICKEN WITH HERBS
Prep: 15 minutes Cook: 10 minutes Makes: 6 servings 3 or 4 boneless skinless chicken breast halves, total 2 1/2 pounds
1 1/2 teaspoons coarse
(kosher) salt
1 teaspoon espelette
pepper or sweet paprika 2 tablespoons minced fresh herbs, such as a combination of thyme, tarragon, oregano (or 1 tablespoon dried mixed herbs)
1 teaspoon minced fresh sage or 1/2 teaspoon ground sage 1 tablespoon safflower, sunflower or expeller-pressed canola oil
1 or 2 tablespoons butter, cut into small bits or extra-virgin olive oil Sprigs of fresh herbs
1. Pat chicken dry. Remove the chicken tenders from the underside of the breasts and save for another use. Place one breast half on the cutting board. Using a very sharp knife, butterfly the chicken as follows: Starting at the thickest side, slice the chicken horizontally in half cutting nearly three-fourths of the way through to the other side. Open the chicken like a book (or a butterfly) and cover with a sheet of plastic wrap. Pound until uniformly about ½ inch thick. Cut in half if desired. Place on a baking sheet and repeat with remaining chicken breasts.
2. Mix salt, espelette pepper and herbs in small dish. Sprinkle on all sides of chicken. If working ahead, refrigerate loosely covered up to a day. Otherwise, leave on the counter in a cool kitchen for up to 30 minutes.
3. Heat a large cast-iron or nonstick griddle (or large skillet) over high heat until a drop of water sizzles on contact. Turn on the exhaust fan.
4. Reduce heat under the griddle to medium-high. Add about 1 teaspoon of safflower oil then immediately add the chicken in a single, uncrowded layer. (Work in batches if necessary.) Cook, without turning, until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Use tongs to flip chicken and cook second side until golden, about 3 minutes more. Remove chicken to a platter. Repeat with more oil and remaining chicken.
5. Dot the top with bits of butter or drizzle with olive oil. Repeat to cook remaining chicken. Garnish with herbs. Nutrition information per serving: 242 calories, 9 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 110 mg cholesterol, 0 g carbohydrates, 0 g sugar, 38 g protein, 572 mg sodium, 0 g fiber
GRIDDLE-SEARED CHICKEN WITH CAPRESE-STYLE TOMATOES
Prep: 20 minutes Cook: 10 minutes Makes: 6 servings
When I want to add a smoky flavor to the chicken, I put the cast-iron griddle on the grill grates of a hot charcoal or gas grill. After the griddle is hot, add the chicken in a single, uncrowded layer, cover the grill and cook as directed. If you can find them, use marinated mozzarella balls, dressing the salad with some of the oil from the container. 4 large boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, total 2 1/2 pounds Salt
1 container (16 ounces) celigene mozzarella balls, drained
2 to 3 cups cored, seeded,
diced ripe tomatoes
2 to 3 tablespoons thinly
sliced fresh chives Extra-virgin olive oil Freshly ground black
pepper Safflower, sunflower or expeller-pressed canola oil
1/2 cup thinly sliced fresh
basil leaves Shredded Parmesan
cheese
Fresh herb sprigs
1. Pat chicken dry. Remove the chicken tenders from the underside of the breasts and save for another use. Place one breast half on the cutting board. Using a very sharp knife, butterfly the chicken as follows: Starting at the thickest side, slice the chicken horizontally in half cutting nearly threefourths of the way through to the other side. Open the chicken like a book (or a butterfly); cover with a sheet of plastic wrap. Pound until a uniform ½ inch thick. Cut in half if desired. Place on a baking sheet and repeat with remaining chicken breasts.
2. Season chicken generously with salt. If working ahead, refrigerate loosely covered up to a day. Otherwise, leave on the counter in a cool kitchen for up to 30 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, slice mozzarella balls in half. Put into a bowl. Add tomatoes, chives and 1 or 2 tablespoons olive oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
4. Heat a large cast-iron or nonstick griddle (or large skillet) over high heat until a drop of water sizzles on contact. Turn on the exhaust fan.
5. Reduce heat under the griddle to medium-high. Add a light coating of safflower oil then immediately add the chicken in a single, uncrowded layer. (Work in batches if necessary.) Cook, without turning, until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Flip chicken; cook second side until golden, about 3 minutes more.
6. Transfer chicken to a platter. Drizzle with olive oil. Repeat to cook remaining chicken. Stir basil into tomato mixture, then spoon mixture over chicken. Sprinkle with Parmesan and garnish with herb sprigs. Serve.
Nutrition information per serving: 446 calories, 25 g fat, 12 g saturated fat, 158 mg cholesterol, 2 g carbohydrates, 0 g sugar, 52 g protein, 153 mg sodium, 1 g fiber