Dayton Daily News

This spinach soup has salad aspiration­s

- By Melissa Clark

New Year’s resolution­s aside, January is actually a terrible month to try to eat more healthfull­y. For one thing, there’s not a lot of tempting fresh produce in the market, inspiring a cook to make stunning salads. Then, there’s the icy, gray-skied weather that quite naturally makes a body crave carb-heavy, cozy fare, preferably smothered in bacon and cheese.

The best January dishes bridge the divide between healthful and heavy. They’re warming and sustaining, but still full of vegetables and whole grains.

This spinach soup does exactly that. Loaded with greens, celery, leeks and herbs, it’s got vegetables galore. Some potato puréed into the broth gives it a creaminess without richness. And farro stirred in at the end gives it texture and an earthy depth, making this recipe walk the line between soup and stew.

One individual choice you’ll have to make is how thick or thin you’d like your soup to be. Start with a quart of good broth (either chicken or vegetable). This will be enough to liberally cover all the vegetables while they simmer away. Then, after puréeing the soup, you can evaluate it. If it’s too thick, just stir in a little water. If it’s too thin, let it simmer for a few minutes uncovered to reduce it.

If you can, try to start with a good, flavorful broth, something you’d be happy to heat up and sip by itself from a mug on a freezing day. But even a bouillon cube will work. This isn’t a fussy soup; it will forgive all kinds of substituti­ons and still taste excellent.

You can use other grains in place of the farro. I love its substantia­l chewiness and almost bready flavor. But if you don’t have any on hand, you definitely don’t need to run to your nearest fancy market to find some. Simply leave it out for a thinner, lighter soup. Or use 2 cups cooked rice (brown or white) instead. Wild rice would be another great swap if you happen to have some in your cupboard, maybe leftover from that pilaf you made for Thanksgivi­ng.

In any iteration, this soup will satisfy your hunger and warm your bones — and a resolution to make it will be easy to keep.

LEMONY SPINACH SOUP WITH FARRO

Yield: 6 servings

Total time: 1 hour 10 minutes

4 tablespoon­s unsalted butter

or olive oil

2 leeks, white and light green parts, chopped

2 celery stalks, diced

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

3 rosemary or thyme branches

2 bay leaves

1 pound potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces (2 to 3 medium potatoes)

1 quart chicken or vegetable stock

1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt, plus more as needed

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1 cup farro

1 pound baby spinach (about 20 cups)

1 cup cilantro leaves and tender stems (or use dill)

1 cup parsley leaves and tender stems

Juice of 1/2 lemon, plus more for serving Extra-virgin olive oil

Flaky sea salt Aleppo, Urfa, Turkish or other red-pepper flakes Grated Parmesan or pecorino (optional)

1. Melt the butter or heat the olive oil in the bottom of a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Stir in the leeks and celery. Cook, stirring occasional­ly, until vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in the garlic, rosemary and bay leaves; cook 1 minute more. Stir in the potatoes, stock, 2 cups water, 1 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Bring to a boil; reduce heat to medium and simmer, partly covered, until vegetables are tender, 30 to 40 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Add farro and cook according to the timing on the package until just tender, about 20 to 30 minutes. Drain.

3. Discard rosemary branches and bay leaves from the soup pot. Add spinach, cilantro and parsley, and simmer uncovered until very soft, 5 to 8 minutes. Using an immersion blender, purée soup until smooth. (Alternativ­ely, you can purée the soup in batches in a blender or food processor.) If the soup is too thick, add a little water. If it’s too thin, let it simmer uncovered for another few minutes to thicken. Stir in lemon juice and more salt to taste. Stir in farro.

4. To serve, ladle the soup into bowls and top with a drizzle of olive oil, a few drops of lemon juice, flaky salt, red-pepper flakes and a little grated cheese, if desired.

 ?? NEW YORK TIMES FOOD STYLIST: MONICA PIERINI. LINDA XIAO / THE ?? Lemony spinach soup with farro. Loaded with greens and other vegetables, plus farro and creamy potato, this soup walks the line between healthful and heavy.
NEW YORK TIMES FOOD STYLIST: MONICA PIERINI. LINDA XIAO / THE Lemony spinach soup with farro. Loaded with greens and other vegetables, plus farro and creamy potato, this soup walks the line between healthful and heavy.

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