A moment of brightness
I’ve thought a lot about my children this week, as I think just about every parent in America has. They are life itself, and my life specifically.
There were moments when I didn’t have much of an appetite, and other times when I went out of my way to cook because it was nice to have a mind-clearing task. And now, heading into the long weekend, what I want is to gather up kids and family and friends and soak in the sun — a brief reprieve from the wider world, and one I’m lucky to be able to take.
There will be food, of course. There always is. The recipes below are fast and bright, and while I don’t mean to suggest they’ll make all the wrong things right, I hope they deliver some happiness.
TAJÍN GRILLED CHICKEN
Tajín is a Mexican seasoning made from dried, ground red chiles, sea salt and dehydrated lime juice. It is great sprinkled over fresh cut fruit like mango and pineapple, or rimmed on an ice cold margarita. But it is also an easy way to add chile and lime to your favorite grilled meats, rubs or sauces. In this dish, the lime in the Tajín balances out the sweetness from the agave syrup, while the red chiles complement the smoky flavor of the chipotles. Serve the chicken as is or on toasted hamburger buns with a schmear of mayonnaise, chopped grilled scallions, cilantro leaves and sliced pickled jalapeños. This Tajín sauce also would pair well with grilled bass, cod or salmon, or with shrimp skewers.
By Rick A. Martinez
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 35 minutes Vegetable oil, for the grill 8 skinless, boneless chicken
thighs (about 2 pounds)
Sea salt (or kosher salt)
1/2 cup light agave syrup or honey 1/2 cup fresh orange juice 1 teaspoon finely grated orange
zest
3 chipotle chiles in adobo, finely chopped, plus 1/4 cup adobo sauce
6 garlic cloves, finely grated 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive
oil
1 tablespoon Tajín Clásico 8 scallions, root ends trimmed 1/2 cup cilantro leaves and tender stems
1. Prepare a grill for mediumhigh, direct heat; clean the grates well, then brush them with vegetable oil. Alternatively, heat a grill pan on medium-high and brush the pan with oil.
2. Arrange the chicken on a sheet tray and generously season both sides with salt. Whisk together the agave syrup, orange juice, orange zest, chipotles, adobo, garlic, olive oil and Tajín in a medium bowl.
3. Brush both sides of the chicken with the Tajín sauce.
Grill the chicken, turning and basting often with the Tajín sauce, until cooked through, charred but brick red and glazed, 7 to 9 minutes. Grill the scallions, turning occasionally, until lightly charred on all sides, about 5 minutes.
4. Serve the chicken with the grilled scallions, topped with cilantro.
HOT-SAUCE SHRIMP
So much more than a condiment for your morning eggs, hot sauce can add kick to dips, soups, marinades, sauces and more. Because most include vinegar and salt in addition to chiles, all hot sauce needs to become a silky pan sauce is fat. That’s the approach used in this super-quick recipe, which tastes like a cross between Buffalo chicken wings and chile shrimp. After charring some scallions in the skillet, shrimp are cooked until plump and pink, then both are tossed with butter and hot sauce until glossy. Because hot sauces vary greatly in terms of heat, start with one tablespoon, then add more as you wish. If it’s too spicy for you, add more butter or serve it with rice, crusty bread, beer, yogurt or ranch dressing to cut the
heat.
By Ali Slagle
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 10 minutes
1 ½ pounds large shrimp, peeled and deveined or shell-on
Kosher salt
3 tablespoons unsalted
butter, cold and cubed 1 tablespoon hot sauce,
plus more to taste 2 tablespoons neutral oil (like vegetable or grapeseed), plus more as needed
6 scallions, trimmed, white and green parts cut crosswise into 1-inch segments
1. Pat the shrimp dry and season with 1 teaspoon salt. Put the butter and hot sauce in a large bowl.
2. Heat the oil in a large (12-inch) cast-iron skillet over high. Add the scallions and cook until softened and browned in spots, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the scallions to the bowl with the butter and hot sauce.
3. Add the shrimp to the skillet in a single layer and cook, undisturbed, until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes, adding more oil if the pan is dry. Flip and cook until opaque all the way through, 1 to 2 minutes more.
4. Transfer the shrimp and any juices to the butter, hot sauce and scallions. Toss vigorously until the butter is melted and the shrimp is glossy. Taste, and add more hot sauce and salt as needed.
CREAMY, LEMONY PASTA
This 15-minute pasta lets you decide how much effort to put in: If you’ve had a day and need an easy, no-nonsense meal, then make it as is and use kitchen shears to cut your scallions. If you’re feeling slightly more ambitious, then make a topping that adds texture, vibrant green color and more lemony flavor to the dish (see Tip). But don’t cut corners when it comes to the yogurt: Use a thick, strained wholemilk yogurt like labneh, Greek or skyr, as it will give the finished dish an irresistibly rich and tangy taste. By Yasmin Fahr
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 15 minutes Kosher salt
1 pound short curly pasta, such as cavatappi, fusilli or farfalle
1 large lemon, zested and juiced (about 1 tablespoon zest and 3 tablespoons juice) A heaping ¾ cup grated Parmesan, plus more as needed
Black pepper
¼ cup labneh or other thick, strained wholemilk yogurt, such as Greek or skyr, drained if necessary
2 scallions, green and white parts, sliced
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta, adjust the heat to maintain a gentle boil, and cook until just shy of al dente, 2 to 3 minutes less than the package instructions. Reserve 1 cup of pasta water. Drain the pasta, then return to the pot on the stove over medium-low heat.
2. Stir in 3/4 cup of the pasta water, half the lemon juice, the Parmesan and several grinds of black pepper, stirring vigorously until a silky sauce has formed. Add a tablespoon of water at a time as needed to make a creamier sauce if it looks dry. Stir in the labneh, remaining lemon juice, lemon zest and scallions until creamy and combined, about 1 minute more. Season with salt as needed. Finish with another grind of pepper and serve immediately.
TIP: To make the lemony scallion topping, combine 4 sliced scallions with 1/4 cup cilantro leaves and stems roughly chopped or torn, the juice of half a lemon and a pinch or two of salt. Serve over the finished pasta.
ONE-POT RICE AND BEANS
Not only is rice with beans adored the world over (see: gallo pinto, khichdi, hoppin’ John and Caribbean rice and peas), it even has its own Wikipedia page. This deeply flavored rendition is inspired by these comforting traditions and a desire to wash as few dishes as possible: The rice cooks with the beans and the starchy liquid they’re canned in. As the two ingredients cook together, the beans disperse and glom onto the rice. For an extra kick, sauté chopped jalapeño with the onions or add 1/4 cup salsa with the stock.
By Ali Slagle
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 30 minutes
2 tablespoons olive oil 1 yellow onion, chopped
(about 1 ¼ cups)
1 ¾ cups chicken or
vegetable stock or water 1 teaspoon salt
1 cup long-grain rice 1 (15.5-ounce) can black
or pinto beans
Lime wedges or cilantro leaves, for garnish (optional)
1. In a large saucepan or Dutch oven with a tightfitting lid, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the stock, cover and bring to a boil.
2. Add the salt, rice and beans (including the liquid). Stir just to combine, then cover.
3. Turn the heat down as low as it will go, then let simmer, undisturbed, for 18 to 20 minutes. Remove from heat and let sit for 4 minutes, then fluff with a fork.
4. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then garnish with lime or cilantro as you wish.