ITALIAN SOJOURN
Masks and magnificent food in Venice
From the Ballrooms of Venice to a Pasta Kitchen in Rome
As a child, my European mother Johanna Mendel Mitchell made sure that from an early age I was an adorer of Venice. On summer trips to this extraordinary city, I was consumed by the mystery of the masks that were sold everywhere. On further inquiry, vendors would gush, “Il Carnivale! One day you must come to Il Carnivale!”
One day I did, and it was fantastic!
Considered the oldest carnival in Europe dating back to 1162, this is the last hurrah before Lent. It is a week-long farewell to all things fun; and the equivalent to Mardi Gras in New Orleans. By the time of the Renaissance, masks were added to protect their decadent owners’ identities. Although Mussolini banned Il Carnivale during the 1930s, it was revived by Venetian artisans in 1979 and has been attracting flamboyant party goers ever since.
My experience was a joyous fantasia of people of all ages from all over the world in period costume. We all paraded through the streets from dawn until dusk; eventually gathering in San Mark’s Square for iPhone poses, to sip Prosecco and then to party until dawn at the glorious Balls held in magnificent palazzos throughout the city.
The extravaganza was made even more delightful by the company of my dear festive, fanciful, carpe diem friends and family - Hadar BusiaSingleton, Pierre Lalande and my brother Cameron Mitchell Jr.
We all arrived in high spirits on Friday night and woke early on Saturday to visit the Rialto Market by the famous bridge in Campo della Pescheria. The Rialto has been the financial and commercial center of Venice since the 1100s. It is the transactional link between East and West; where spices, metals, precious stones, perfumes, balms, silks and fabrics have been sold for centuries alongside mouthwatering fruits, fresh produce, fish, meats and cheeses.
By 9am we had already feasted on delicious fresh raspberries and espressos, wearing magnificent masks we had purchased that morning from market vendors. We wandered the streets enjoying Venice’s amazing morning masquerade that joyously continued all day.
At sunset, we donned our costumes and enjoyed Negroni cocktails at the hotel. We walked over bridges and cobblestones to the traditional Baglioni Ball, imagining the centuries of other party goers who had done just the same.
Feted to a six course feast in a palazzo, we listened to Baroque music, received instruction in the minuet by a Commedia del Arte troupe, and danced the night away by candlelight.
By Sunday evening we were boogieing in our crinolines under strobe lights at the fabulous Official Ball of Venice which is held at the Casino di Venezia - the oldest casino in the world.
Upon entering the great hall we were serenaded by a singer in beads lounging on a half-moon suspended from the 17th century ceiling. At 3am a gondola picked us up from the Casino dock and gently rocked us back to our hotel. Hours later, hoop skirts and wigs were packed up and we caught the train to Roma.
We couldn’t however help wearing our masks for the trip!
restaurant. Aroma is right across the street from the Colosseum, and kitty corner to the Forum on the fourth floor of the magnificent Palazzo Manfredi.
The Palazzo Manfredi sits on the ruins of the largest gladiatorial school in Rome - The Ludus Magnus (Latin for the Great Gladiatorial Training School). It was built by the emperor Domitian in the late first century C.E. On these grounds, the great gladiators from around the world lived, trained and prepared for battle.
The Palazzo itself was built as a private villa in the17th century and later became a hunting lodge. In 2002, under Count Guido Manfredi it became the grand hotel we know today.
Dusk had already set in as we finished our extraordinary repast, and that evening we wandered the strada, happily exploring and getting lost and yes, all roads do lead to Rome!
Our last day in Italia we spent at Cinecitta Studios, called “Hollywood on the Tiber”, and the hub of Italian cinema. Founded in 1937 by Benito Mussolini primarily to make propaganda films for the Axis’ war machine, it was bombed by the Allies during World War II, and shortly after was used as a displaced persons camp housing 3000 refugees. During the 1950s it was rebuilt for large American film productions such as “Ben-Hur” and “Roman Holiday”. In the 1960s it inspired the great Federico Fellini. We paid homage to him and his favorite set in Teatro 5.
That night we sipped Aperol, and watched the Roman sun set over the Mediterranean Sea from the rooftop of the Hotel Eden totally enchanted by our extraordinary Italian adventure.