East Bay Times

The best sweet pickle relishes — and the ickiest

- Jolene Thym COLUMNIST

Sweet pickle relish haters abound, but there’s no denying that the condiment has a spot in American cuisine. A fine mince of cucumbers, peppers and other veggies, sweet pickle relish is tart, sweet and salty all at once — a magical game-changer in dips, dressings and deviled eggs. It’s the bright dash in Thousand Island dressing, the sweet pop on a juicy hot dog and the counterpoi­nt to the salty umami of a plump, fully dressed burger.

Pickle relish comes in two styles, dill and sweet — with sweet dominating the category. Landing somewhere in between is hot dog relish, a blend of sweet relish and mustard that we did not invite to the table.

Similar to an English-style Indian chutney or a pepper jelly, great sweet pickle relish delivers not just sugar and vinegar, but layers of flavor and spice. The best are densely packed, with bits of crunchy, fresh vegetables.

Bad relish is every kind of awful: too sweet, too mushy, too salty, too bland. The worst are slimy and sour, with a tin-like aftertaste.

Here’s the scoop on sweet pickle relish worth spooning on a hot dog — and the most hideous mouthfuls. Nutrition info refers to 1 tablespoon.

Wickles Original Relish

Those who love dill pickles will appreciate this thick mishmash of dill-forward cucumber and peppers. It’s sweet, tart and spicy hot, and its fresh flavor comes from apple cider vinegar. 15 calories, 95 mg sodium, 4 g sugar. $5.99 for 16 ounces at Safeway. ★★★★

Mt. Olive Sweet Relish

Crunchy and balanced, this tangy relish hits all the right flavor notes. It’s more tart than sweet, and includes lots of flavorful red bell pepper. This is the right pick for those who want a mouthful of tradition. 20 calories, 120 mg sodium, 4 g sugar. $1.99 for 8 ounces at Trader Joe’s. ★★★★

Mt. Olive Simply Relish Deli Style Sweet

This extra-sweet relish looks like diced green olives and pimento and it’s so watery that it requires a sieve, but it has layers of flavor thanks to extra mustard and celery seed. 15 cal, 120 mg sodium, 3 g sugar. $3.39 for 16 ounces at Raley’s. ★★★

Del Monte Sweet Pickle Relish

Fans of onion may appreciate this unique relish, as it has nearly as much onion as cucumber. It lacks crunch, but the flavor would work well in creamy foods such as macaroni salad or deviled eggs. 15 calories, 120 mg sodium, 4 g sugar. $2.55 for 8 ounces at Raley’s. ★★

Raley’s Sweet Relish

The impressive balance of tart-sweet flavors can’t quite save this sloppy melange, as the uneven cuts of cucumber are unpleasant­ly tough and chewy. 20 calories, 120 mg sodium, 4 g sugar. $1.50 for 8 ounces. ★

Vlasic Sweet Relish

Briny, pickle-forward aroma promises a good bite, but the texture of this slimy mix of flabby cucumber bits is off-putting. It’s also over-salted. 15 calories, 140 mg sodium, 3 g sugar. $2.99 for 10 ounces at Raley’s. ★

Sprouts Organic Sweet Relish

The texture of this relish is pleasant, but the flavor is sugary sweet and tastes like tin. 20 calories, 120 mg sodium, 4 g sugar. $1.99 for 8 ounces. 

Signature Select Sweet Relish

This super-sour mix assaults the taste buds with sugar and vinegar lashings. One taste is all you would ever want. 20 calories, 95 mg sodium, 4 g sugar. $2.29 for 9 ounces at Safeway. (No stars)

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GETTY IMAGES A fully loaded hot dog practicall­y requires sweet pickle relish, but while some relishes are tasty, others are ... the opposite.
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