Banter, El Cerrito
Banter feels undeniably hip. This year-old wine bar started by Claire Sullivan and Devin Hohler last April may look like an unassuming storefront from the outside. But step inside, and you're instantly transported back to a time-warped version of the '80s with vintage music posters, bold wallpaper and a community-sourced collection of VHS tapes and vinyl records. The back room offers a coin-operated pinball machine too.
The bar offers a rotating selection of natural wines, including a flight of three half-glasses for $22, which is a great way to sample several varieties. A selection of small plates — meat, cheese, hummus, anchovies ($14) — rounds out the menu.
WHAT TO TRY >> The Oest Wines “Ruckus” is a light sparkling red, and the French Guignier Beaujolais Villages Gamay is fruity and fragrant. A more controversial choice is the orange Artana Rkatsiteli from Georgia (“the country!” the menu notes) aimed at sippers undaunted by descriptors like “vegetal” and “funky.” Just want a little nosh? Pair it with a slab of Acme's “hella wet” levain bread ($5) served with salted Straus butter.
DETAILS >> Open from 4 to 9 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday at 10368 San Pablo Ave. in El Cerrito; banterwine.com.
Co-owner Steven Huynh prides himself on the welcoming atmosphere at San Jose's Goodtime Bar, a laidback natural wine bar that's all about letting the good times roll.
Goodtime Bar, San Jose
As it nears its first anniversary, Steven and Ann Huynh's wine bar is all about inclusion and accessibilty. Steven's Asian American upbringing didn't include much exposure to wine or to the etiquette and knowledge expectations he says often accompany a traditional wine tasting.
“Natural wine, for me, breaks down those barriers,” he says. “It doesn't really have a barrier to entry — you don't need to know anything about grapes or wine varietals. (You can) have a fun experience, where you can learn if you want or just drink a good product and enjoy your time out.”
They even have a Goodtime Bar Run Club, so you can get your exercise in first.
WHAT TO TRY >> Made with organic viognier grapes, the 2021 Les Parcelles Pétillantes Bouteillou from France's Les
Chemins de Bassac is sparkling and refreshing. Pair it with the arancini ($14), made with Japanese curry, kimchi mayonnaise and fontina cheese and topped with nasturtium leaves.
DETAILS >> Opens at 4 p.m. Monday and Wednesday-Friday and 2 p.m. weekends at 30 Fountain Alley #160 in San Jose; goodtimebarsj.com.