HELP FOR HIGH-STRUNG HORSES
A nervous horse requires a gentle, empathetic approach. These aren’t nasty or resistant horses---they just can’t easily settle their minds and relax. Besides being patient with these horses when you are riding or working with them, there are other things you can do to help them stay calm in general. Keep the following management tenets in mind when caring for a nervous horse.
Be prepared to break free from your routine.
If a nervous horse knows what to expect throughout the day, he will feel more secure and be better able to relax. Try to feed him at the same time each day, turn him out with the same group and even groom and tack him up in the same order before each ride. If, however, sticking with routine doesn’t seem to be in the nervous horse’s best interest, be prepared to break it. For instance, if there is construction near his paddock, wait until things settle down before turning him out. Or, if he’s seeming extra “buzzy” one day, extend his turnout or riding time to give him an outlet for that energy.
Provide lots of turnout.
Time spent at liberty on pasture can make a big difference in a horse’s attitude. Riding uses up energy, but pasture turnout allows a nervous horse’s mind to unwind at the same time. Turnout also exposes high-strung horses to wind, creaky trees and local wildlife---making all of those much less alarming when you encounter them later on a ride. Interactions with other horses can also be incredibly helpful to a nervous horse, allowing him to feel secure in a herd hierarchy. The more hours a nervous horse can spend outdoors in a friendly, stable peer group, the better.
Feed only what the horse needs.
Calories provide energy, and excess energy fuels a horse’s high-strung behavior. It’s not as simple as feeding a nervous horse less, however. Many have leaner body types and are hard keepers so you can’t simply cut back their calories. A change in feed type may be helpful, but it can take some experimentation to hit on the right formula. For years, it was accepted wisdom that high-carb, high-sugar diets made all horses reactive, but equine nutritionists now believe that the effect of diet varies by individual. If you suspect a horse’s feed is contributing to his behavior, consult with your veterinarian and be prepared to try a few different approaches.
Consider calming aids. Science can help. There are a growing number of calming products---from nutritional
supplements to pheromones---that have scientific backing. These products are most effective when used in conjunction with other management changes. Keep in mind, however, that nearly all sport organizations prohibit use of any product intended to alter a horse’s behavior, even if the specific ingredients are not banned. If you regularly compete with your horse, consult the official rule book of your discipline prior to using a calming product.
SAFETY ON THE ROAD
For many riders, spring means a return to trails, shows, clinics and other events that may require trailering. Before loading your horse up for the first time this year, take some steps to ensure he’ll stay safe while on the road:
• Check out your trailer. Go over your whole rig with a critical eye, looking for sharp edges or protrusions that could injure your horse. Pay particular attention to the floor---rotten floorboards or frayed matting may need to be replaced. Also check accessories like ties, dividers and butt bars to ensure they are in good working order. Consider replacing elastic, bungee-type ties entirely; they offer horses a bit of extra movement, but if a horse panics and pulls back to the point the tie breaks, it can become a projectile with the snap end hurtling back at the horse. Horses have lost eyes as a result of such accidents.
• Go over your gear. Make sure any boots, bandages, head bumpers or other travel-wear for your horse is in good shape. Check that Velcro closures still “grip” sufficiently and that the bottoms of boots haven’t become frayed. If you’ve had changes to your herd, verify that equipment fits the horse you intend to use it on. Reusing equipment still in good shape makes financial sense, but boots that are too small for a horse may not cover the coronary band to offer important protection, and those that are too large pose a tripping hazard.
• Brush up on your loading techniques. Even if your horse has a solid history of loading and unloading easily, take some time---when you aren’t in a rush to get anywhere---to calmly review the basics. If your horse has any trailering “issues” like scrambling or rushing out the door when unloading, you’ll need to make a plan for addressing it early and consistently, not just on the days you’ll be traveling. If you’re unsure how to work with a bad traveler, ask around to find an empathetic trainer experienced with the specific problem.
A BALANCED RATION
Ration balancers---feeds that provide essential nutrients but minimal calories---can be a great option for an easy-keeping horse prone to being overweight. Such horses are typically fed a balancer full-time, keeping them at a safe weight while not compromising their nutrition.
But ration balancers can also be used as a temporary solution to changing nutritional needs in other types of horses. And they can be particularly useful in spring.
Consider the following scenario: An active horse who lives in an area where long, cold winters mean dormant pastures. He will need a traditional feed during winter to provide the calories he needs to stay active. But
when the weather warms, pastures quickly bounce back and the time he spends grazing may push his caloric intake beyond what he needs, leading to weight gain. In this scenario, switching his feed to a ration balancer while the grass is lush can help keep his weight stable and protect his health.
Ration balancers can also be a temporary nutritional option for horses during layups. Whether it’s your own work schedule or his healing injury, if you know your horse isn’t going to be ridden for an extended period, consider swapping out his grain for a ration balancer to ensure that he gets optimum nutrition without unneeded calories.
You’ll want to make the switch from a conventional feed to a ration balancer gradually to avoid any digestive upset. You don’t, however, need to be as cautious as you would if you were ramping up his calories. Plan to make the switch over the course of a week. Also, keep in mind that a horse on a balancer will usually get less feed by volume, so you may need to increase his hay ration to provide “chew time” if he gets restless between meals.
THE HOWS AND WHYS OF HOOF ABSCESSES
It’s no coincidence that hoof abscesses are more common in the spring. Continually wet footing or repeated wet/dry cycles cause the hoof to expand and contract quickly. As a result, cracks and microcracks develop in the sole and horn, allowing bacteria to enter and become trapped.
The bacteria flourish in this anaerobic environment and pus forms, leading to an increase in pressure that can cause sudden and dramatic lameness. A farrier or veterinarian can relieve the pain by paring away hoof wall to allow the abscess to drain. Afterward you’ll need to provide followup care, which involves soaking and wrapping the hoof until all the pus is cleared and the area heals.
A large or recurring abscess can keep a horse out of work for several weeks. So, of course, it’s far better to prevent abscesses from forming in the first place. That, however, can be particularly challenging during wet or changing weather conditions.
Start by providing your horse with a dry place to stand for several hours each day. This could be a clean stall or an area in his field that has been reinforced with gravel. For the greatest benefit, focus your mud-minimizing efforts on high-traffic areas of the pasture, such as around gates, in run-in sheds and around hay feeders.
In addition, make sure your horse is getting regular farrier care, because hooves that are out of balance are more prone to cracks and abscesses.
Shoes and pads may help address particular problems---such as thin soles---that can make a horse susceptible to hoof abscesses. But the best option for a specific situation will need to be evaluated on a caseby-case basis with your farrier and possibly a veterinarian.