ON THE COVER
After weeks of intense pain and upheaval across America in the wake of George Floyd’s killing at the hands of a white police officer, 13 influential black leaders open up about the power of protest, how they’re navigating a defining moment in history and why change is critical right now.
JIDE ZEITLIN Chairman and CEO, Tapestry Inc.
HOW I’M FEELING: “I’m feeling very human and vulnerable. I am saddened by the violence perpetrated on men and women across this country, from Ahmaud Arbery to Breonna Taylor to George Floyd. I am also hopeful. I believe in the ideal that is America — an ideal that is about equal opportunity and the social mobility that comes with it. When I see the young black man in the street protesting, I sit there and I say, ‘That’s me.’ He’s crying out for opportunity, the opportunity to better himself. And, in so doing, to make America stronger. I believe that if he’s able to achieve the American dream, it makes all of us better.” WHAT I’M DOING: “Having conversations. With my family, with my colleagues, with other corporate leaders. I’m also having conversations with leaders such as Bryan Stevenson of the Equal Justice Initiative and at other critical civil society institutions. Our team at Tapestry wants to collaborate with a number of social justice, legal and corporate entities to develop and support longer-term plans for addressing systemic inequality — in health, economic opportunity, public safety and other sectors. We’re taking the first steps along these lines. We hope to join with government, but events of this past week make it clear that we cannot wait.”
PORTIA BLUNT Director of apparel operations, New Balance
HOW I’M FEELING: “I have struggled with articulating my feelings over the last few weeks. I have experienced an acute sense of sadness, loss, confusion, anger, motivation, commitment and the list goes on. Frankly, my emotions change hourly and I feel like I am on the brink of total mental exhaustion most days, but I keep whispering to myself to keep going because my voice needs to be heard and because my kids need to know that their future is secure and I am doing everything I can to make that a reality for them. As a black woman, history shows we carry the burden of pain when fighting for progress. I am overwhelmed with feeling vulnerable, something that is hard to face when you are so focused on being strong. I feel a heavy burden most days, but instead of pushing it away, like so many other black women, I am leaning into it. One way is by acting as a sounding board for colleagues, leadership, friends and family. I am also acting as an educator, not just to my kids but to our non-black friends and family, and also cheering on our culture to keep fighting peacefully. Out of all of this pain, I know we will reach the light. In years past, I felt hopeful when faced with moments like this, but today I feel a burning fire that surpasses all feelings of hope. That hope has been replaced with an urgency I can only describe as unyielding motivation to see change happen.”
WHAT I’M DOING: “The reality of racial injustice is not new, and certainly isn’t a new concept for the black community. As a black woman raising two black boys, race is at the center of every day. How it gets invoked or triggered varies, but it is always there. I think everyone is settling into their own way of addressing the problems we face and trying to actively become a part of the solution. For me, I have been focused on how I can be a beacon of change within my community both professionally and at home. Whether it is within my community as a board member at a local private school or my role within my job, I am making my voice heard at the table. At that table, my seat means nothing if I am not addressing issues of racial injustice. To be a leader, I must provide critical feedback where it is warranted and counsel where it is necessary, and most importantly drive accountability for commitments made and behaviors that need to change. Everyone has a role to play to help us move forward and no contribution is too small. “EVERYONE HAS A ROLE TO PLAY TO HELP US MOVE FORWARD AND NO CONTRIBUTION IS TOO SMALL .”
— PORTIA BLUNT
This moment in time is revealing painful truths about the lack of diversity we have been aware of in the footwear industry for many years. Black employees within our industry are speaking up and challenging systems. My energy is focused on championing this moment — right now we have a chance to truly impact positive change for those coming up behind us, because ultimately this fight is really for them.”
AURORA JAMES Founder, Brother Vellies and 15 Percent Pledge
WHAT I’M DOING: “Black people spend trillions of dollars in this country every year, but yet represent an insignificant fraction of how these companies allocate their purchasing power. I am asking these huge corporations to rethink their business strategy, as well as rethink business relationships in order to fairly represent the black community on their shelves. The support from these major retailers will help these brands grow when they are seeking outside investment or when they are walking into a bank. What we are asking is not that tough, and we are here to help these retailers attain that 15% with clear and attainable goals. First, they need to take stock of where they are and complete an audit of their business. Then they need to accept where they are at, own it and figure out how they got there. Last, they need to commit — commit to achiev
ing a minimum of 15%, set a deadline to achieve this and put a system in play where they can be held accountable. It could take a few years, but we are here to help lay out that plan and strategy. And we have some of the most brilliant black minds on board to help make it happen.”
JEROME LAMAAR Lifestyle expert
HOW I’M FEELING: “Everyone was getting too comfortable with old-world ideas, [those] that were made to keep people of color uneducated, suppressed and in a loop of struggle. However, no matter what was done to us, as a people we still pushed forward creating our own universe. We
elevated our one narrative about black America and had culture snatch that too. We need to rebuild balance and give acknowledgement to those of us who have asked for equality for over 400 years. The same group of people were called lazy, yet they were the ones doing the actual labor — whether it was in the sun picking cotton or raising other folks’ kids, cleaning their homes or even creating new genres in music, art, fashion or technology that we could not take full credit for. I simply hope the conversation about race is addressed properly after this chapter of change. I believe we can all grow from this and develop a stronger, fairer foundation than the previous one. One that is respectful to all people of color and holds the government and the shady cops accountable for the wrongdoing to the public.”
WHAT I’M DOING: “I have been spending my time guiding people on strategic ways to protest and speak truth. I’m giving my good vibes and moral guidance to friends who need the veil lifted from their unaffected reality. This change can only shift when non-black people step up and help fix this horrible one-sided perspective of history by hiring for their true talent and not to fill in a void for diversity purposes.”
HERON PRESTON Designer
HOW I’M FEELING: “Fashion and art’s inherent ability as a tool to capture what is happening in culture and quickly redefine ‘value’ means that our industry could help to drive the change we want to see forward. What we need to do is rise to the challenge and approach every aspect of our business with awareness. In design, we need more meaningful concepts. In our work environment, we need more diversity and inclusivity. In our marketing, we need more consideration about what messages we are promoting and who we are enlisting to promote those messages. In our giving back programs, we need to be more selective and involved. And we need consistency in all of this. Let’s not make this a performative marketing exercise. Let’s really do the work. Then we will see and feel change.”
ALISON DÉSIR-FIGUEROA Hoka One Oneathlete and Harlem Run founder
HOW I’M FEELING: “I find myself having waves of emotions. I feel thankful for the protestors and everyone sacrificing so much to drive this country in a more equitable direction — making phone calls, signing petitions, holding brands and companies accountable. But then, I also feel genuinely terrified when I read the way the president continues to incite violence and attempts to militarize the country.”
WHAT I’M DOING: “Personally, I’m doing my best to stay present — meditating, running/walking, spending time with my husband and son and doing things that make me happy. Professionally, I am in the middle of a free, nine-event virtual tour, ‘Meaning Thru Movement,’ which seeks to normalize conversations around mental health in the fitness space. Sponsored by Hoka One One, upcoming conversations include ‘Let’s Talk About Whiteness,’ ‘Addressing Intergenerational Trauma’ and a special event featuring Dr. Robin DiAngelo, author of ‘White Fragility.’ The tour features an incredible lineup of mental health professionals, activists, runners and other fitness experts.”
KELLS BARNETT Owner, Harlem Haberdashery
HOW I’M FEELING: “Right now, I feel uneasy. I feel like many people aren’t connecting to the issue and thinking this is an issue specifically for black people, when injustice should be the concern of all people, regardless of race. I try to make people who counter with ‘all lives matter’ once they hear ‘black lives matter’ take color out of the issue and pretend George Floyd or any other person of color done wrong is white, and ask, ‘How would you feel? Imagine if he was white, would that upset you? Or if it was your child or loved one?’ Color is strangely the blinding issue for many who can’t understand racism. Police brutality is human injustice regardless of color.” WHAT I’M DOING: “Professionally and personally, I try to educate my people on the importance of self-ownership and starting grassroots organizations committed to community. Unity is really important. It’s nice to see all these brands speak up to the cause of black lives mattering, but if the structure of organization doesn’t reflect your message, then you are part of the problem. Inclusion and diversity is very important, but most
brands don’t reflect their message. [However], it’s nice to see the effort. I feel we can get to a place of peace, but it’s a conscious effort that every single person needs to make for that to happen.”
DEVLIN CARTER Founder, SIA Collective
HOW I’M FEELING: “Right now, I am flooded with mixed emotions. As a black man in America, I feel like I am a target for racism. I have been the victim of racism, by the police and also during my military career. I am saddened [because] I have a 2-yearold son who will one day go from this adorable little boy who loves Hot Wheels cars and monster trucks into a young man who will be seen as a monster because of his skin color. As a loving father, this frightens me. It’s sad that I have to calculate in my head, like a complicated math equation — what age should I teach my son how to keep his hands on the steering wheel when stopped by the police, how to choose a crew neck sweatshirt over a hoodie for your late-night store runs? I have to teach my son how to be less black because his blackness is a threat to America’s whiteness! [But] I am also happy right now because I am seeing the most beautiful BLM protests going on all around the world, with people of all colors demanding change. I’m not sure if it’s the pandemic or the execution of George Floyd, but these protests feel different, they look different, they are different and I think we will finally get some legislative change on police reform. I am also seeing change on social media from these major corporations like Nike and Adidas, stating that black lives matter and how they are for the movement, which I am a little skeptical about. I think a lot of these companies are turning BLM from ‘Black Lives Matter’ to Black Lives Marketing. For example, how many African Americans are at the top of these companies? Or on their board of representatives? Are black employees paid less than their white employees that do the same job? Are women at these companies paid the same as the men? Or are these corporations just using this moment to pretend that they are for us, when they are not doing anything to uplift us?” WHAT I’M DOING: “During this pandemic and social distancing, I was not able to hold my FBCC teens class, so I decided that I would start selecting random young people to invest in and help them start their own clothing business. I have a local black-owned print shop in my neighborhood that I pay to bring their ideas to life. I also have my graphic artist help them with their logo or revamp their existing logo. I then pay for the production of the goods and ship it off to the winners. Since I am paying the cost 100%, every sale they make is all profit for them to re-up and keep their brand going. One of the main reasons I do this is because I know that some of us just need a little help — financially, we are hurting. The black community has a 17% unemployment rate right now, which is the highest among all nationalities. I also know that banks don’t really give young black people business loans; they will give you a $100,000 school loan, but won’t give you a $10,000 business loan, and that’s because your oppressor is not trying to finance your freedom. So if Nike, Reebok, Adidas or Under Armour really believe that black lives matter, then invest in these young black people. Give them the startup loans the banks won’t, give them the full-ride scholarships to schools, not to play sports but to learn the business of fashion, architecture or any field that would help them continue in a career at your company. We came to this country as slaves. All we are asking for is a little help to remove these chains.”
KESHA MCLEOD Stylist and author
HOW I’M FEELING: “In the beginning, I was feeling sad and anxiety-filled, but at the same time, I am using this time to reflect and be inspired by my people and do what I can do to pave the way for black women like me in my field. There is always beauty in pain. What I think companies should start doing is shining a light on their black contributors and creators within their organizations. I’ve watched and experienced friends and colleagues in the shoe industry and fashion industry doing so well within those companies and never get the acknowledgment for it. We know it; we see it, but let our efforts be equal. We are not asking for special treatment. We work hard, and our accolades should be equal to our white counterparts. Also, start to work with black talent, athletes and entertainers. And be more involved within the community and support various charities. Please don’t turn a blind eye to what’s going on with the world. I’m not saying our movement is more important than any other, nor am I comparing. It should be held in the same regard.
D’WAYNE EDWARDS Founder, Pensole Design Academy
HOW I’M FEELING: “I feel hurt for all my fellow brothers and sisters in the industry who had to experience the same things I have experienced from an
industry we helped build since Jan Matzeliger [an inventor known for his shoe-lasting machine] in 1883. I am proud of the way brands I used to work for, like Jordan and Nike, are leading and showing the rest of the industry how important their black employees, consumers, communities and future employees are to them. I am confident Adidas will step up, but my wish is for the rest of the industry, which earns money based on black people supporting their brands, will also do their part to give back to those who gave to them. I’m optimistic that our industry will get this right by creating generational programs to grow and sustain our existence — and be the example that other industries will follow. We need to unite.”
WHAT I’M DOING: “Personally, I will continue to do what I have been doing since 1989, which is mentoring and uplifting our young brothers and sisters who
“I AM HAVING MANY TOUGH CONVERSATIONS PROFESSIONALLY AND PERSONALLY...”
— DRE HAYES
want to get into the industry and those who are already in our industry. I left the industry 10 years ago to start Pensole because I knew there needed to be a focus on identifying, developing, placing and mentoring more of us in this industry, because the current system is not designed to do that. The communication between the industry and the next generation of students is practically nonexistent. A vast majority of college students are oblivious to the job opportunities that they could have or pursue within our industry. I am not a mathematician, but I would guess that if the top 10 revenue-driving companies in our industry annually redirected 1% of their sports, entertainment marketing and advertising budgets to education, they could provide tuition to over 100,000 black students a year. If our industry could generate over 100,000 students a year — which is equal to the size of the top 15 HBCUs combined — our industry could create its own black college almost twice the size of the largest college in America. Professionally, I want to work toward uniting the industry — designers, brands, retailers, etc. — because this fight is bigger than us individually and if we work together, more would be achieved quicker. I am witnessing this happen through making the African American Footwear Forum an annual event and the creation of new programming that has measurable results beginning in middle school.
DRE HAYES Co-founder, The Foundation
HOW I’M FEELING: “As a black man who is aware and has been dealing with racism, discrimination, police brutality and social injustice all of my life, I have a lot of mixed feelings right now. Part of me is naturally angry and saddened by these issues, but I am never one to be consumed with emotion. I am encouraged that people appear to be waking up to what is actually going on out in the world, but I am also concerned that it will only last for a moment and people will retreat back to their corners.”
WHAT I’M DOING: “I feel like I am back in school. I am educating myself even more now on these issues than I did in the past. I am having many tough conversations professionally and personally with different companies and people of diverse backgrounds. These conversations are sometimes uncomfortable for all parties, but they are necessary and the only way there can be real change.”
TREIS HILL Managing partner, Alife
HOW I’M FEELING: “I’m in disbelief if I’m honest. The amount of public support and corporate contribution to end racism is unprecedented and moving, but I can’t help but to see the guilt many friends, colleagues and companies have. Initially, it felt like false generosity. Why now? Why didn’t our industry take a stance before? But our industry and the world’s collective silence is, I hope, in the past. And I know black people around the world will need as many allies to eradicate racism as possible. Companies will no longer have the luxury of skirting the race issue. Consumers will now and forever hold companies accountable. Passive posts and donations alone will not be enough. To end the systemic racism our country and industry face will take planning, new thinking and education, but also uncomfortable conversations. It is now everyone’s responsibility. It must remain a focus for every company.”
WHAT I’M DOING: “A month ago, America was in pain as the video of Ahmaud Arbery surfaced. Alife reached out to Ahmaud’s mother, Amanda Cooper, and was able to raise $20,000 in the name of justice for her son. Then the George Floyd video surfaced and it was obvious to us this issue couldn’t be solved with simply donating proceeds to the family. More needed to be done. We are currently planning an initiative we feel will be the first step in eradicating racism and inequality within our industry. Additionally, we will be reaching out to the footwear brands we work with to join us in the defeat of racism and to understand how they plan to be a support. Alife also released a ‘No Justice No Peace’ playlist curated by our friend Thibaut De Longeville, a seven-hour history of great songs protesting police brutality. Personally, I’ve attended two marches, both with my 5-year-old son, in an effort to provide perspective and hands-on visibility in this ongoing struggle. I will continue using my personal platform to be as vocal as possible.”
SELEEN SALEH Photographer
HOW I’M FEELING: “Many brands — and the fashion industry as a whole — have benefited from the inspiration of cultures across the globe, and especially black culture. I would like to see the narrative shift to a perspective from black creatives and have the stories told by them visually or otherwise. We all see the world from a very unique perspective, and shifting the perspective I believe would yield beautiful results. I would also like to see media globally hold space for more photographers of color, especially women.”