Restaurants: Go, Consider, Stop

Edible enlightenment from our eatery experts and colleagues Richard Nalley, Monie Begley, Randall Lane and Chef Jeff Lamperti,

as well as brothers Bob, Kip and Tim.

Casa Lever

390 Park Ave., at 53rd St. (Tel.: 212-888-2700) Although often noisy, this place is very cool in its design and décor. Some dishes are excellent, but the kitchen needs a kick, as there’s less love going on these days. Favorites: the calamari special paired with squash and chilies and the spicy arrabbiata spaghetti. Don’t pass on the profteroles or millefoglie; both are scrumptious.

Omar’s

21 West 9th St. (Tel.: 212-677-5242) This restaurant/supper club with its well-thoughtout menu is a welcome addition to the West Village. Salads, tuna tartare and Serrano ham make for tasty starters. The gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimp with Serrano ham), organic chicken and Chilean sea bass are frst-rate. Rich ice cream between chocolate chip cookies will put a smile on your face.

Han Dynasty

90 Third Ave., near 12th St. (Tel.: 212-390-8685) A storefront restaurant that’s the far-above-expectation spot you’d like to keep as your own secret. Dishes vary in cooking style, with heat scale (can be adjusted to your preference) indicated. Even the mild oferings, like the wonderful Dan Dan noodles, have some sneaky burn to them. A must: the lingeringly aromatic cumin-style lamb.