EAT­ING MY WORDS

Cinco de Mayo dining

GA Voice - - Art Makers - By CLIFF BO­S­TOCK

It’s al­most time to drench your­self in mar­gar­i­tas with the illusion that you are cel­e­brat­ing an es­pe­cially im­por­tant day in Mex­i­can his­tory. I’m talk­ing about Cinco de Mayo, which com­mem­o­rates an 1862 battle in which the Mex­i­can army won a battle against their French oc­cu­piers.

Soon af­ter, the day was turned into a kind of pride hol­i­day by Mex­i­can-Amer­i­cans living in Cal­i­for­nia. It spread through­out the US as a week­long cash cow for restau­rants of all types. Or maybe it’s a way of steel­ing nerves be­fore Moth­ers Day, which fol­lows five days later on the 10th.

The lead­ing new kinda-sorta Tex-Mex place is Ford Fry’s Superica (96 Krog St.,

www.su­per­i­caatl.com) in the de­vel­op­ing gas­tro­nomic palace, the Krog Street Mar­ket). This is the sixth restau­rant in Fry’s al­most uni­ver­sally cel­e­brated em­pire. (He has a sev­enth—Mar­cel, a steak­house—on the way in West At­lanta).

The menu is a pretty art­ful blend of clas­sic Mex­i­can and Tex-Mex. In fact, Mex­i­can is the main fare, which, I as­sume, is why pro­mo­tional lit­er­a­ture de­scribes the menu as “Mex-Tex,” a kind of pre­cious phrase, but what­ever. For ex­am­ple, there are tacos al pas­tor, po­zole, ce­viche, and chicken in mole poblano, along with Tex-Mex­ier hard­shell tacos (ew) and fa­ji­tas. Fry de­scribes his main in­spi­ra­tion as the restau­rants in Austin, which is, cer­tainly home to the most cre­ative Mex­i­can cooking in Amer­ica.

Hope­fully a newbie, Rosa’s Tex-Mex Re­vival (5480 Peachtree Road, Cham­blee), will also be open, as an­nounced, in time for a Cinco pig-out. This restau­rant is a project of the own­ers of nearby South­bound. It will fea­ture straight­for­ward Tex-Mex, un­doubt­edly cooked with fi­nesse by Chef Beth Colvin, chef de cui­sine at South­bound..

Co-owner Mike Plummer lived in Texas for six years and re­cently told At­lanta Mag­a­zine that “din­ers can ex­pect tacos, tor­tas, and fa­ji­tas, as well as en­trees like slow-braised pork and items pre­pared on the smoker. There will be ce­viche and fried yucca, too.

I sug­gest you call South­bound (5394 Peachtree Road, Cham­blee, 678-5805579, www.ba­con­snobs.com) be­fore plan­ning a visit. You may want to put South­bound it­self on your dining list. Lo­cated in a for­mer Ma­sonic Lodge, it’s gar­nered im­prov­ing re­views for its Soth­ern-in­spired Amer­i­can cui­sine dur­ing the last year.

Also heed Chris­tiane Lauterbach’s list of some fave sub­ur­ban taque­rias in the most

re­cent is­sue of Knife and Fork: Ta­que­ria del Mar (5075 Peachtree Pkwy, Nor­cross, 678-820-9836), Ta­que­ria La Du­ranguense (365 Pat Mell Road, Ma­ri­etta, 404-9669480), Ta­que­ria San Pan­cho (4880 Lawrenceville Hwy., Tucker, 770-493-3984),

the raved-about Ta­que­ria La Oax­aquena (605 Mount Zion Road, Jones­boro, 770

960-3010). Be­lieve me, they are worth the drive. She also men­tions the inim­itable Ta­que­ria del Sol (Mid­town and be­yond).

Lauterbach, for­merly dining critic for At­lanta Mag­a­zine, has pub­lished her newsletter for more than 25 years. It re­mains the city’s best source of re­views and news of quirky restau­rants. Sub­scribe by call­ing 404-378-2775.

Ford Fry’s Superica in Krog Street Mar­ket of­fers up ‘Mex-Tex’ dining per­fect to cel­e­brate Cinco de Mayo. (Photo by Erik Mead­ows)

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