Mysterious Malta

Unearth the enduring heritage and history of the island nation.

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Valletta, capital of Malta, was built to keep us out. The old city is protected by formidable limestone walls and crammed onto a peninsula flanked by two natural harbors. As we approach by water taxi from the district of Sliema, we can see no easy way in. The Maltese islands — Malta and neighboring Gozo (and several smaller, uninhabited islands) — have been fought over for centuries. Located in the heart of the Mediterranean, this little island nation presides over sea routes between the Middle East and Western Europe and between Southern Europe and North Africa. In numerous wars Malta has been a strategic prize, hence the defenses. Few places evoke the history of Europe as vividly.

From our landing place we switchback up a road and through a stone arch. We’re immediately plunged into a maze of narrow streets. Where to start? As good a place as any is the Malta Experience, a 45-minute family-friendly “audiovisual spectacular” in an auditorium at St. Elmo’s Fort. Here we gain an overview of 7,000 years of Maltese history, providing context for our explorations of the city.

Medieval knights built much of Valletta in the 16th century. You can see their banners, weapons and suits of armor on display at the Armoury in the Grand Master’s Palace. Currently undergoing a $32 million restoration, the palace will reopen in phases from 2024, though the Armoury remains open to visitors throughout the renovations.

Kids might find the displays in the Armoury a bit, well, boring. Not