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1754 House owner achieves dream during pandemic

A BAGEL FANTASY EVOLVES INTO CULINARY REALITY FOR OWNER AND CHEF

- By Pamela Brown Pamela Brown is a freelance writer.

Opening a restaurant is a challengin­g venture, but couple it with a global pandemic and it becomes an even greater feat. That didn’t stop Michael Bates-Walsh, chefowner of the newly renovated 1754 House in Woodbury who signed papers a week and a half before businesses across the country closed due to COVID-19.

“Owning an inn and restaurant has been a lifelong dream. I never pictured things would start out the way they did. During the shutdown, we spent time sprucing up the property, hiring our fantastic team and preparing for opening day,” said BatesWalsh, who initially opened in late May as a tent in the parking lot and internally called it Le Lot Cafe. “It was an effort to find some humor in the grim idea that we were a tent in the parking lot, but it turned out to be a lot of fun.”

While still facing challenges and uncertaint­y, Bates-Walsh is looking forward. “I believe in what we provide to our guests. We continue to adapt to the changing conditions so we can offer an exceptiona­l experience.”

The 1754 House, formerly known as the Curtis House, is considered to be the oldest inn in Connecticu­t and is on the National Register of Historic Places.

“That’s one of the primary reasons I was attracted to it. I love hearing stories about what the inn has meant to people over the years — the couples who got married here, families celebrated holidays here. It’s a very special place,” said Bates-Walsh, who grew up in houses built in the 1700s and 1800s, and shares his mom’s passion for older homes. “I’m glad my team and I are preserving a place that so many people know and love, and we’re doing so in a way that restores it to its former glory,” he said.

Bates-Walsh has made significan­t improvemen­ts to give the inn a clean, fresh look by installing new lighting and updating the décor, including adorning the walls with watercolor­s by his late father. “Even though we’re historic, we can be a fun, hip and an inviting place for locals and travelers to gather and enjoy life, if only for a short while.”

Located among the rolling hills of Litchfield County, the 1754 House offers historic charm with contempora­ry amenities, including 17 guestrooms, with four located in the building previously used as the carriage house.

The indoor dining area conforms to safety guidelines, with a plexiglass shield at the tavern bar, upgraded HVAC systems and equipment that cleans the air naturally and safely.

“We benefit from having so much square footage that we can really distance our guests and still have a nice ambiance,” said BatesWalsh, who is now focusing his energy on preparing seasonal menus on regional, locally-sourced, sustainabl­e ingredient­s. “My cooking style is pretty simple — great ingredient­s handled with care, properly seasoned and well executed. I strive for simple elegance, featuring exceptiona­l produce, meats and seafood.”

The menu at 1754 House comprises what BatesWalsh calls “small and share plates,” such as cauliflowe­r gratin, braised bacon tacos and artisanal charcuteri­e and regional cheeses.

“These items are geared toward sharing with friends over drinks and great conversati­on, coinciding with that gathering place vision of the inn.” The restaurant also features soups, salads, and sandwiches, and more substantia­l plates or entrées for a more filling meal.

Bates-Walsh is joined in the kitchen by David DeMarco, Chef de Cuisine. The two have worked together for nearly a decade.

“We call ourselves the traveling circus. The Oprah Magazine said that we prepared ‘delicious comfort food, from soft pretzel bites and hand-cut French fries to pan seared scallops and a juicy, cheesy burger’ when we led culinary operations at a hotel in Vermont, and The Boston Globe wrote that we made ‘one of the best burgers ever,’ ” said Bates-Walsh.

One of their unique creations at the 1754 House is Exotic Mushroom Risotto. “What’s different and surprising is that we don’t use any cream or cheese, just vegetable stock. That allows the natural, earthy flavors of the organic mushrooms to be the star of the show.”

Bates-Walsh’s culinary career started at a bagel shop when he was a teen, then he found himself working in the kitchens of popular New England restaurant­s, hotels and fullservic­e luxury resorts, including The Equinox Resort and the Cohasset Harbor Resort and the Atlantica restaurant.

“I have fond memories of conversati­ons with my father while I was in high school planning my own bagel shop named after my cat — Bubba’s bagels,” he said.

The 1754 House may be much grander than a bagel shop, but Bates-Walsh remains a friendly, down-toearth, small town chef who provides every guest with the ultimate experience.

“We strive to exceed guest expectatio­ns and I enjoy a personal interactio­n with as many guests as I can. I even enjoy answering the phone from the line in the kitchen during a busy lunch with my signature greeting of ‘it’s a wonderful day at the 1754 House, this is Michael, how may I help you,” he explained, adding that the greeting has sparked many fun conversati­ons.

Adding joy to his days is the presence of his 9-yearold son, Anderson, and his wife Hannah, who are an active part of the restaurant.

“We’re building on a legacy and I want the 1754 House to be a place where people can make great memories, celebrate with family and friends, or just enjoy an evening of delicious food in a safe, socially distanced environmen­t. We take our work very seriously, but also have a lot of fun doing it. I think it shows, and I think the guests appreciate it.”

For more informatio­n about the 1754 House, visit 1754house.com.

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 ?? Michael Bates-Walsh ?? opened Woodbury restaurant 1754 House in
May. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic they served food outside in the parking lot, nicknamed Le Lot Cafe. 1754
House menus strive for simple elegance with their locally sourced and sustainabl­e ingredient­s.
Michael Bates-Walsh opened Woodbury restaurant 1754 House in May. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic they served food outside in the parking lot, nicknamed Le Lot Cafe. 1754 House menus strive for simple elegance with their locally sourced and sustainabl­e ingredient­s.
 ?? Michael Bates-Walsh / Contribute­d photos ??
Michael Bates-Walsh / Contribute­d photos

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