State officials impose new restrictions on whelk harvest
Carnivorous snails known to many shoredwellers for their spiraled shells and use in scungilli salad are on the decline in Long Island Sound, regulators say. That has prompted Connecticut to impose new harvest restrictions on whelk — and drawn the ire of local fishermen.
The new regulations set to go into effect in August include the state’s first-ever size requirements on whelk, which fishermen say will require them to toss roughly 40 percent of the smaller snails they catch back into the water. The Department of Energy and Environmental Protection is also setting new standards for the kinds of traps used to harvest whelk and prohibiting fishermen from setting or tending traps at night.
Fishermen say the new rules represent a stark turnaround for state regulators, who have historically applied few limits on the fishery and even treated whelk as pests that harmedthe state’s shellfish industry by preying on clams and oysters.
“We never had any regulations,” said Bart Mansi, a fisherman in Guilford who has harvested whelk for over 45 years. “As a matter of fact, when we first started, it was against the law to throw them back. So no matter what we caught, what size they were, (it was) the law that they had to be taken out of the water.”
DEEP officials, meanwhile, contend that populations of the slow-growing snails have been depleted by unregulated fishing in the Sound, and that similar size limits in other
Atlantic coastline states have proven successful at managing whelk populations. In New York, fishery regulators proposed a similar set of size limits to go into effect this summer as part of a coordinated effort between officials in both states.
Bill Lucey, the soundkeeper at Save the Sound, said there is lack of scientific research on the health of whelk populations off the coast of Connecticut. But data from fishermen shows that the snails brought to market in recent years are declining in size, indicating that the overall population may be in danger.
“The bigger whelk are more valuable, so if you create a fishery that has bigger whelk and more of them in the future, then you’re making an investment for down the road by putting some restrictions in now,” Lucey said. “But, of course, the shellfishermen don’t like them … because all those (whelk) like to eat their product: oysters, clams.”
The new regulations will allow licensed whelk fishermen to remove whelk below the legal catch size from commercial shellfish beds, so long as they release the snails back into the water in areas not used to cultivate clams, oysters or other shellfish.
Whelk fishermen questioned the data that went into crafting the new regulations, but they were successful at getting DEEP to phase in the most restrictive size limits over a period of several years. Still, fisherman like Mansi said that officials have failed to consider the regulations’ impact on their businesses.
“With the rising cost of fuel and everything, I don’t even know if we’re going to be able to stay on the water,” Mansi said.
A spokesman for DEEP did not respond to a request for comment Monday seeking data on the existing whelk fishery in Connecticut.
Under the new rules, fishermen will be required to toss back whelk whose shells do not measure at least 4.75 inches in length. That requirement will eventually increase to 5.5 inches beginning in 2028. The rules apply to both species of whelk commonly caught in the Sound, channeled whelk and knobbed whelk.
Both species of whelk can grow to a maximum length of 8 or 9 inches, weighing several pounds.
Bob Guzzo, a fisherman from Stonington, focuses on catching whelks — or conchs, as he calls them, using the name for warmwater relative of whelks. The fishery is “hit or miss,” he said, depending on the year, but the whelk population in the Sound is mostly stable, albeit at a smaller scale than what it once was.
“Thirty years ago, sure, there were a lot more, you know, because no one was doing it,” Guzzo said. “Lobsters were worth more money. No one would go after conchs for $3 a bushel.”
Beginning in the late 1990s, however, the lobster population cratered in the Sound, decimating the commercial fishery in Connecticut. Around the same time, demand for whelks began to grow in China, prompting many lobstermen to switch to catching the slow-moving snails using traps that work similarly to lobster pots.
Mark Howard LeMoult, age 59, of Norwalk, lost his life suddenly while behind the wheel of his cherished 1968 Pontiac Catalina on Monday afternoon, May 23, 2022. Born in Bronxville, NY, the son of the late Adolph LeMoult and Carole Calkins Furgess, he was raised in Westport and had been a lifelong area resident. He attended Staples High School and graduated from The Culinary Institute of America. Mark was a highly esteemed chef and leader in his industry. His culinary vocation began at the age of 13, squeezing limes at Viva Zapata, where his love for the industry blossomed. Mark went on to work at some of the area’s finest establishments including Café Christina in Westport, the Hudson River Club and Rainbow Room in NYC and Tamarack Country Club in Greenwich. He had been the Executive Chef at the Field Club of Greenwich for the past 14 years. He met his adored fiancée, Elizabeth, while working together 21 years ago at Beacon Restaurant in Stamford. One of the highlights of Mark’s professional career was serving as the President of the Club Chefs of Connecticut from 2006-2010. Because of his loyal dedication to his craft and the Field Club, Mark zealously worked nights and weekends limiting his attendance at many personal functions, affectionately earning him the family nickname of “The White Rhino” as sightings were elusive but exciting to all.
An incredibly dedicated father, Mark enjoyed camping, river rafting and spending as much quality enjoyment with his sons as possible. He always carved time out of his busy schedule to have “Tuesday Dad Days,” many of which were spent barbecuing and cheering on the NY Yankees. Mark would check in with his boys daily and had the utmost pride in them both. His favorite places to visit were Lake George and Cape Cod with family. He was an avid NY Yankees fan (especially of Paul O’Neil #21) and absolutely loved to get his hands dirty planting in his garden. He cherished his two dogs Leo & Teddy and loved mornings at the dog park and walks through the neighborhood. He was a true cigar aficionado and relished his evening smoke to relax after a long day. Mark and Elizabeth enjoyed entertaining in the backyard with friends and family around the firepit, concerts at the Levitt Pavilion and experiencing wonderful meals at local restaurants where Mark reveled in supporting other industry & hospitality professionals.
All those who knew him will always remember his roaring laugh, unyielding hugs and his gentle heart and soul. Mark’s legacy will live on through his two dynamic sons, Scott LeMoult of Stamford and Eric LeMoult of Fairfield; his loving fiancée, Elizabeth Kenny of Norwalk; three revered brothers, Michael LeMoult and his wife Mary of Trumbull, Chris LeMoult and his wife Carole of Trumbull and Kevin LeMoult of Murrells Inlet, SC; the mother of his children, Ellen LeMoult of Fairfield; his stepfather, Bert Furgess of Murrells Inlet,
SC, and several incredibly loved nieces and nephews who adored their uncle. Mark forged deep connections with every person that he met and leaves behind an infinite circle of very dear friends and colleagues. In addition to his parents, he was predeceased by his sister, Kelly LeMoult.
A Mass of Christian Burial will be celebrated Wednesday, June 1, 2022 at 10:00 a.m. at Our Lady of the Assumption Church, 545 Stratfield Road, Fairfield. Interment will follow in Oak Lawn Cemetery. Friends may be received by the family Tuesday from 4-8 p.m. in the Spear-Miller Funeral Home, 39 South Benson Road, Fairfield. Cheerful attire is encouraged to honor the vivacious life that Mark lived. In lieu of flowers or other recognition, the family requests that donations be made in Mark’s LeMoult’s memory to the Culinary Institute of America’s scholarship fund at www.ciachef. edu/give. For information or to offer an online condolence, please visit www. SpearFuneralHome.com