STAYCATION
Amelia Island getaway, differing landscapes on Florida’s Atlantic coastline
Six Hours to Paradise
One mysteriously beautiful Florida destination thrills romantics, history buffs, foodies, beachgoers and car enthusiasts―and her name is Amelia. Facing the Atlantic directly below the Georgia line, lovely Amelia Island lies at the f oot of America’s low country. Its painterly tidal marshes and moss-draped oaks instantly evoke the sense of having left Florida, yet the island still offers gorgeous sunsets, mouth-watering seafood and luxurious beach walks. The beaches―particularly on the southern end―lead to dramatic dunes filled with gopher tortoises and protected by long boardwalks traversing them. Near the northernmost reach of the island lies the historic community of Fernandina Beach, its Centre Street a vastly welcoming thoroughfare. Florida’s oldest bar, the circa-1878 Palace Saloon, holds a prominent corner as horse-drawn carriages pass by. The island’s unique economy, which still includes some industry, has held its progress in check in the best way possible. Luxury travelers will be pleased with the options, but middleincome travelers can also enjoy a pleasing getaway. Fernandina plays host to a wonderful panoply of shops, restaurants and galleries. The Book Loft at 214 Centre St., for example, is two floors of temptations, while Pearl boutique offers high-end resortwear and accessories for women. Lemongrass, with its vintage surf motif, tempts with cool apparel.
The surprising Celtic Charm overflows with goods from Ireland, Scotland and Wales. Worth seeking out is Red Otter Outfitters, lying just beyond the pedestrian stretch of Centre (which becomes Atlantic Avenue as it stretches east). Downtown is the majority of island restaurants. Grouper sandwiches at The Salty Pelican are worth a repeat visit, while soft tacos and other fare at Timoti’s Seafood Shack are popular with hungry patrons. The pricey but wonderful David’s Restaurant & Lounge is a sexy place to spend an evening, while Salt, at the Ritz-Carlton, will surely be even more magnificent after its fall 2016 renovations.
Other eateries earning high marks include the tapas bar España, Le Clos, Joe’s 2nd Street Bistro and Cucina South. You’ll also find Puerto Rican and Cuban cuisines, and the Green Turtle Tavern offers relaxed porch seating and great live music.
An Amelia River Cruises excursion past Cumberland Island is a must. You’ll hear how islanders pulled off the secret
The beaches―particularly on the southern end―lead to dramatic dunes filled with gopher tortoises and protected by long boardwalks traversing them.
wedding of John Kennedy Jr. and his bride, Caroline (remember the photo of the two of them on the steps of that rustic, small chapel?). Get lucky and you’ll also spy the wild horses of Cumberland, primarily in the Dungeness area between the dock and the ruins. It’s also fascinating to see the sheer scale of commerce with cargo ships being loaded by cranes.
Where you stay determines, in part, on the type of trip you’ll have. Choose the luxe Ritz-Carlton or Omni Amelia Island Plantation Resort, both anchoring the island’s south end, for example, and you’ll have everything you need on property, from golf to spa to fine dining. The Omni’s resort lounge is a nightly hot spot, with some of the best live music in Florida, but exclusive to Vintage auto races ( below) and the Amelia Island Concours d’Elegance in March honor heavy metal, but year-round fun includes diverse menu choices and slow rides along historic vistas.
hotel guests. The Omni has its own complex of shops, but you’ll need a car to stroll the downtown; it’s 9 miles and 20 minutes to Centre Street. This also holds true for the island’s gorgeous RitzCarlton. Countless rental homes and condos front the Atlantic, in the miles between downtown Fernandina and the island’s south-end resorts; they are also isolated, for the most part, from commercial enterprise.
History buffs will enjoy Fort Clinch, learning about the eight flags that have flown over Amelia and how the plot that ended the Spanish-American War was hatched at the Florida House Inn (the state’s oldest surviving hotel). Race enthusiasts might find themselves a little feverish when reading details of the island’s annual Concours d’Elegance, four March days teeming with vintage cars and world visitors. “What resonates for me,” visitor Susie White says about Amelia, “is the drama of the beaches, and how fun it was to walk around downtown, discovering things on foot.”
Although Amelia’s seasons are opposite those of Southwest Florida, even stretches of winter can be lovely; Christmas of 2015 saw temps in the 70s. Keeping an eye on the extended forecast is wise for those who travel spontaneously―Amelia is less than six hours from Lee County. Freelance writer Libby Boren McMillan is a frequent contributor to TOTI Media.
You’ll hear the memorable tale of how islanders pulled off the secret wedding of John Kennedy Jr. and his bride, Caroline, on Cumberland Island.