Hartford Courant

From the ashes of Park & Oak, Little Oak offers fast, fresh menu

- By Susan Dunne Susan Dunne can be reached at sdunne@courant.com.

Little Oak Café, a breakfast and lunch place in Canton, is one of the newest restaurant­s in the Farmington Valley. It rose from the ashes of Park & Oak, the popular West Hartford restaurant that closed last July as a result of the coronaviru­s pandemic.

Jeff Fiorino of NewBritain and David Borselle of Farmington metwhile working at Park & Oak and became good friends. That restaurant focused on primarily American comfort food, but also had Italian dishes such as eggplant parmesan.

After that restaurant closed, Fiorino andBorsell­e looked for anewprojec­tand found one in the old location of Onion Mountain Kitchen, which also closed permanentl­y during the pandemic. Fiorino said it wasarisk opening during a pandemic but they are confident they will succeed.

“The right opportunit­y came along and I love this spot,” he said. “Of course, you always want to open in the 100% best conditions, but hopefully weall will comeoutoft­his, with the vaccines going well now, and people will want to start supporting new places.”

Little Oak, at 220 Albany Turnpike, is fast-casual rather than table service, hence the name “Little Oak,” a littler restaurant than Park & Oak. No item on the menutakes morethan 10 minutes to prepare. Takeout is available as well as appropriat­ely distanced dine-in indoors or outdoors on the porch.

The menu offers traditiona­l breakfasts, sandwiches, panini, wraps, salads. Most menu items are different than those fromPark& Oak, with a fewexcepti­ons, such as the popular Nashville Hot Chicken sandwiches.

Pizzas are cooked in a 900-degree wood-fired oven constructe­d on site by Tuscany Fire of New Haven, which imports Italian Di Fiore ovens.

Borselle, the chef, is especially proud of the pizzas, which he called a fusion between Neapolitan style and New Haven style.

“Neapolitan crust is made from just four ingredient­s, flour, water, yeast and salt. In Connecticu­t, we like the crust crispy and charred,” said Borselle, who studied cooking in Italy. “I make the Neapolitan-style dough and make it crispy and charred. All of them are individual sizes, not large or medium, like they do in Italy.”

“The Market,” a bank of freezer cases by the door, offers soups, salads and reheatable dinners such as Park & Oak’s popular eggplant parmesan and other Italian specialtie­s. Avery’s beverages of New Britain and a variety of ice cream flavors fromFrisbi­e’s of NewBritain also are offered.

The decor of the café is both cozy, with wood floors and a comfy bar, and cheeky. Walls are hung with superhero and pop-culture influenced prints as well as some subversive “Peanuts”-inspired artworks by Scottish artist Raid71.

In addition to meals and catering, Little Oakoffers pizza and pasta classes. The restaurant is open Tuesday to Wednesday 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., Thursday to Saturday 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sunday 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Pizzas are sold 11 a.m. to close. littleoakc­afe.com.

 ?? KASSIJACKS­ON/HARTFORD COURANT ?? Little Oak Cafe co-owners David Borselle, left, and Jeff Fiorino, stand by their pizza oven imported from Italy. The pair met while working at West Hartford’s Park & Oak before it closed in July as a result of the pandemic.
KASSIJACKS­ON/HARTFORD COURANT Little Oak Cafe co-owners David Borselle, left, and Jeff Fiorino, stand by their pizza oven imported from Italy. The pair met while working at West Hartford’s Park & Oak before it closed in July as a result of the pandemic.

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