Hartford Courant

Delicate dessert puts the whole lemon to use

- By Yotam Ottolenghi

Food waste statistics boggle the mind. We may all have a statistic that leaves us incredulou­s. For me, it’s bread.

In the United Kingdom, the amount of bread wasted totals 1 million loaves, or 24 million slices, every day, according to the Office of National Statistics. Food waste in the United States is put at 30-40% of the total food supply, according to the U.S. Department of Agricultur­e. The numbers are overwhelmi­ng.

There’s a lot that needs to be done on a large scale. Much of it should be the responsibi­lity of the big food manufactur­ers and retailers.

At the same time, there’s plenty we can be doing at home, by ourselves.

The first suggestion is practical: Buy less food at once. The second is more creative: Use up — and make full use of — what we already have. Now, using up and making full use of are slightly different things, but both can be a huge source of inventiven­ess and deliciousn­ess. They’re where the fun, the innovation and the surprises come in.

If you have too much of something, turn it into something else.

Labneh, for example, is simply yogurt hung over a sink for a day or so, in a clean tea towel or muslin, for the whey to drain away. The result can be rolled into balls, covered with olive oil and kept in the fridge for weeks.

Or it can be used to make lemon possets, a classic British pudding made with just three ingredient­s: cream, lemon and sugar.

And so on to the one ingredient I can never have too much of in my kitchen: lemons. I am pretty good at using the whole lemon.

Here, I burn and grind the peel for a burnt lemon powder that will be a source of pleasure and delight on all the salads, puddings or grilled foods it is sprinkled over.

Making burnt lemon powder isn’t going to reverse the tide of global food waste, I know. But it is a useful example of how much we can get out of what we have, of how many creative juices — citrus or otherwise — can flow if we get into the habit of checking ourselves before throwing things away.

 ?? CHRISTOPHE­R SIMPSON/THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? Simple lemon-labneh possets, finished with meringue shards and a burnt lemon powder, make the most of peels, egg whites and any extra yogurt you may have on hand.
CHRISTOPHE­R SIMPSON/THE NEW YORK TIMES Simple lemon-labneh possets, finished with meringue shards and a burnt lemon powder, make the most of peels, egg whites and any extra yogurt you may have on hand.

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