MY MOM’S JAPANESE-STYLE MAPO TOFU

This version of mapo tofu is similar to what J. Kenji Lopez-alt ate growing up, though instead of plain ground beef his mom would use the dish as an opportunity to use up leftover dumpling filling. Unlike the numbing-hot Sichuan version, this one is savory and sweet, with the classic Japanese flavors of soy, sake and mirin, and comes together even faster.

Makes: 4 servings

Total time: 15 minutes 1 teaspoon cornstarch 1 tablespoon cold water 2 tablespoons peanut, rice bran or other neutral oil 4 ounces ground beef 2 teaspoons minced garlic (about 2 medium cloves) 2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger (about ½-inch segment)

2 scallions, chopped into ¼-inch pieces, dark greens reserved for garnish 2 tablespoons sake 2 tablespoons mirin 1 tablespoon shoyu or light soy sauce

cup low-sodium chicken stock, dashi or water 1 pounds medium to firm silken tofu, cut into ½-inch cubes

Steamed rice and chili oil, for serving

1. Combine the cornstarch and cold water in a small bowl, and mix with a fork until homogeneous. Set aside.

2. Heat the oil in a wok over high heat until smoking. Add the beef and cook, stirring constantly for 1 minute. Add the garlic, ginger and scallion whites and pale greens and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 15 seconds. Add the sake, mirin, soy sauce and chicken stock and bring to a boil. Pour in the cornstarch mixture and cook for 30 seconds, until thickened. Add the tofu and carefully fold it in, being careful not to break it up too much. Transfer immediately to a serving bowl and sprinkle with the scallion greens. Serve immediately with rice and chili oil.