Fun, fitness adventures await in Clearwater Beach
Its opalescent windows aglow in the afternoon sun, the new high-rise arcs into the shore like an Architectural Digest cover come to life.
Opened in February, Opal Sands Resort adds another jewel in the crown for Clearwater Beach, named America’s No. 1 beach by TripAdvisor for 2016.
Chic was not on the horizon of this Florida Gulf Coast barrier island in the early 2000s. Back then, we stayed in 1950sera motels, ate and drank cheap at open-air grills, sunbathed on wide white-sand beaches, watched for jumping dolphins in the blue-green waters and, every evening, enjoyed free sunset festivals at Pier 60.
Nostalgia fades when realizing we can still do all of those things and more.
Biking the trails
Opal Sands’ double-decker deck, jutting over the Gulf of Mexico, tempts me to stay by its cool sloped-entry pool.
After all, I could stick with my fitness plan by swimming, working out at the waterview gym and hydrating with hand-shaken agave limeades at two open-air bars. Instead, I borrow one of the resort’s cruiser bikes to explore the island and nearby towns.
The freshly installed Beach Walk leads to the Ream Wilson Clearwater Trail, which edges the causeway and bridge over the sun-sparkled intracoastal waterway. Pedaling just minutes east, I spot “Pinellas Trail” signs.
Among the world’s most lauded rail-to-trail conversion, Fred Marquis Pinellas Trail is 47 miles long with Clearwater as its midpoint.
In historic Dunedin, cyclists with dog trailers park and munch, dogs in lap, at picnic tables at Express Cafe, based in an old railroad boxcar. At the Causeway/Curlew intersection, a trail spur leads to Honeymoon Island State Park, named for its 1940s honeymoon huts. From there, ferries head to Caladesi Island, one of the Gulf’s few completely natural islands, for quiet shoreline walks and kayaking through mangroves.
No time for island detours? Hammock Park’s boardwalk angles through moss-draped trees and across mangrove-lined waters visited by anhinga birds, white ibis and blue heron.
Other locals’ trailside secrets appear in Palm Harbor, including microbreweries and Suncoast Primate Sanctuary, open for tours Thursdays through Sundays. Its fenced enclosures hold chimpanzees, orangutans and monkeys who came from labs, zoos and illegal pet traders.
Trailside attractions at Tarpon Springs, famous for its sponge docks, include bicycle bars and Pistachio’s antique barn.
Pedaling Pinellas Trail south through Clearwater, Belleair, Largo, Seminole and St. Petersburg yields highlights including Taylor Park, where alligators reside in a picturesque tree-lined lake, the sleek pedestrian/pedaler-only bridge spanning Boca Ciega Bay and the classic train station in St. Pete now holding the Morean Clay Center.
Rescued dolphins and turtles
Right off the causeway, Clearwater Marine Aquarium has expanded and gained fame for its resident bottlenose dolphin, Winter, who inspired the movie “A Dolphin’s Tale.” Visitors can watch rescued sea turtles and other marine animals being treated for cold stress, embedded fishing hooks, propeller hits and viruses.
Free daily sunset festivals
Clearwater Beach’s wide sandy coastline remains free-access and perhaps even more beautiful with recent dunes restoration, Beach Walk landscaping, fashionable new lodging and expanded Sunset at Pier 60 events. The every-day festival features fire-jugglers, magicians and other street performers, music, craft vendors and kid-friendly, on-sand bungeejumping.
Revive beach-style
Relaxing locals’ spots include Frenchy’s, Clear Sky Cafe and, for affordable upscale-casual, new Sea-Guini, anchoring its reputation with fresh ingredients such as foraged mushrooms and heirloom tomatoes and sensational traditional and gluten-free house-made pastas.
No liquid spirits were needed to wash away my nostalgia. Clearwater Beach is better than ever.