Houston Chronicle Sunday

Tex-Mex is Texas’ comfort food

- By Syd Kearney

Whether you are seeking a taco or a mindblowin­g mole, you will find plenty of places serving authentic Mexican fare and the comfort foods we call Tex-Mex. Here are some recommende­d restaurant­s:

Arnaldo Richards’ Picos

Chef-owner Richards’ menu draws from the seven distinct regions of Mexican cuisine. Don’t miss sautéed calamari, cochinita pibil, enchiladas moles and chiles nogada. The margaritas are renowned. 3601 Kirby, 832-831-9940; picos.net.

Cuchara

What’s not to love about this hip Montrose restaurant? There’s the all-female kitchen that cooks with love and authentici­ty, the colorful murals that decorate the dining room and an adults-only vibe after dark. 214 Fairview, 713-942-0000; cucharares­taurant.com.

El Real

Housed in the restored Tower Theater, this temple of Tex-Mex serves vintage fare, such as puffy tacos and cheese enchiladas topped with chili gravy. 1201 Westheimer, 713-524-1201; elrealtexm­ex.com.

El Tiempo

The expensive chow at El Tiempo is outstandin­g — deliciousl­y charred fajitas, pillowy flour tacos, amazing salsa. The margaritas are potent and tasty, which is a rare combinatio­n. 5602 Washington, 713-681-3645; 322 Westheimer, 713-807-8101; and six other Houstonare­a locations; eltiempoca­ntina.com.

Goode Co. Taqueria

Trendy restaurant­s come and go, but this Houston icon is still the go-to cafe for comforting Tex-Mex and hefty, mesquite-grilled burgers. 4902 Kirby, 713-520-9153; goodecompa­ny.com.

Irma’s

Irma Galvan’s legendary downtown lunch spot is known for the namesake owner’s comforting Mexican sauces and stews, gracious hospitalit­y and homemade lemonade. Irma’s serves high quality fare and the prices reflect that. 22 N. Chenevert, 713-222-0767; irmasorigi­nal.com.

Molina’s Cantina

In the vast salsa sea of Tex-Mex joints in Houston, Molina’s gets bonus points for authentici­ty (don’t miss the chili). Just know you’ll be presented with two red salsas. Insiders know to ask for the green. 4720 Washington, 713-862-0013; 7901 Westheimer, 713-782-0861; 3801 Bellaire, 713-432-1626; molinascan­tina.com.

Original Ninfa’s on Navigation

As the name implies, this is where it all started. If you believe the legend, Mama Ninfa was (is) the patron saint of Tex-Mex. In her once-tiny kitchen, she cranked out the world’s first fajitas. 2704 Navigation, 713-228-1175; ninfas.com.

Spanish Village

It’s simple Tex-Mex fare served in a colorful and festive setting for more than 50 years. More than a few Houstonian­s admit their love of Spanish Village is fanned by the house margarita. The slushy margaritas are tart, lively and, yes, intoxicati­ng. 4720 Almeda, 713-523-2861; spanishvil­lagerestau­rant.com.

Sylvia’s Enchilada Kitchen

Sylvia Casares’ plates feature fresh ingredient­s and complex flavors. Among her enchilada offerings: squash and corn, crab and grilled pork with a fiery red sauce. 6401 Woodway, 713-334-7295; 1140 Eldridge, 832-2303842; 12637 Westheimer, 281-679-8300; sylviasenc­hiladas.com.

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