Charms of Cuba
Past and present coexist in rich and magical tapestry of Havana.
On Saturday, United Airlines will launch a weekly nonstop flight between George Bush Intercontinental Airport and Havana — Cuba’s capital that, although a mere 2½ hours away by plane, has been out of reach to Houstonians for half a century.
Time is an elusive idea in Havana, a city that resists visual and cultural chronologies. Every time I visit my family on the island, I feel immersed in a magical Gabriel García Márquez-style tempo where things are strictly real but seemingly fantastic. It’s an extemporaneous place where memory happens simultaneously with the present.
Majestic Spanish colonial forts and palaces coexist with the architectural eclecticism that grew during decades of prosperity, along with visual narratives like Cuban socialism posters now dotted with flags and American symbols since the opening of relations between both countries.
Amid that tapestry, there is the Cubans’ inventiveness — with scarce resources, these are people who eliminated the phrase “no, you can’t” from their vocabulary and replaced it with “aquí todo se resuelve” (we can resolve anything).
Visitors can feel Havana’s vibrant urban dynamic by walking through its streets and alleys, encountering constant music, neighbors engaged in dominoes or chess, children playing baseball, and both beautifully restored buildings and structures destroyed by time and poverty.
The best way to experience the city is “with an open mind that allows you to go beyond prejudices and clichés,” says Luis Duno-Gottberg, a Cuba expert and chair of Spanish, Portuguese and Latin American Studies at Rice University. “Reducing Cuba to the tropical flavor, the rum and the cigars, is losing sight of the richness and complexity of the country.”
Indeed there are many things to discover in Havana; the following are just a few must-sees.
PLAZA DE LA CATEDRAL (CATHEDRAL SQUARE)
This is the heart of the Spanish Baroque in Havana, which was the epicenter of the transatlantic trade for four centuries of colonial dominance. La Catedral de La Habana (the Cathedral) is its dominant landmark, surrounded by residences of the Spanish colonial royalty. One of them is the residence of the Marquis of Aguas Claras, which was later converted into a restaurant, El Patio.
While there: Follow in the footsteps of Ernest Hemingway by sipping a mojito at La Bodeguita del Medio, one of the late author’s favorite haunts.
LA PLAZA VIEJA
The mojo of Havana’s “old square” is La Factoría de la Plaza Vieja — a boisterous microbrewery with an outdoor space where you can sit with a beer while listening to live music and enjoying the surrounding galleries and arcades.
While there: Get a sneak peek of the island’s thriving visual-arts scene by visiting the Fototeca de Cuba and the Centro de Arte la Casona, both located around the square.
FORTRESSES
Old Havana is surrounded by forts built by the Spanish to protect their “Pearl of the Caribbean” from pirate attacks and the English forces. If you’re short on time, El Castillo de la Real Fuerza and El Castillo de la Caña are most recommended. El Castillo de la Real Fuerza is the oldest Spanish stone fortress in Latin America; it contains a museum with colonial military objects, a pottery museum and gift shops.
While there: The adjoining Plaza de Armas is home to such treasures as the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales (General Captains Palace), today the City Museum, as well as an automobile museum with vehicles dating from 1905. However, the streets of Havana are famous for being car museums themselves. Also: Stop and talk with book vendors at Plaza de Armas. They may show you interesting under-the-table paraphernalia and hard-to-find iconic posters of the revolution.
EL CALLEJÓN DE LOS PELUQUEROS (THE HAIRDRESSERS ALLEY)
They call it an example of the Cuban economic miracle created by the small business initiative. It all started with Gilberto Valladares (Papito, as he is called) when he opened Arte Corte Papito’s, a hair studio that is, at the same time, an interactive museum. Surrounded by original art pieces and vintage barber instruments, customers here can expect to be treated with an authentic retro experience, antique razors and brushes included.
While there: Check out the other businesses — El Figaro restaurant, textile and artisan shops — that have blossomed in the same Old Havana block.
ELMALECÓN
To know Havanans, take a walk along this 5-mile-long avenue skirting the Caribbean Sea. During the day, the malecón is a quiet place to savor the beauty of the sea and eclectic architecture spanning several centuries; in the early morning it’s the realm of fishermen and meditators contemplating the horizon. At night, the boardwalk is the sofa of Havana, where locals talk, sing, love and cry, as if they were in their own living rooms.
“It’s my favorite place on the island,” says Rice University’s Duno-Goldberg, “because you can appreciate the social fabric of Havana, watching and interacting with people there.”
While there: It isn’t hard to find troubadours ready to give you a love serenade for a few CUC (Cuban Convertible Peso).
OTHER SUGGESTIONS
Shopping: Almacenes San José, a large market in an old harborside warehouse, is a popular place to find locally made street art and crafts, from linen and crocheted clothing to pottery, jewelry and all kinds of ornamental objects. Need a rest? Take in the superb views of the old ships in the Puerto de La Habana (port) from one of the small restaurants at the back of the building.
Emerging Cuba: With the slogan “All the Arts in One Space,” La Fábrica de Arte Cubano is a trendy spot founded by one of the most popular Cuban alternative musicians, X Alfonso. It’s a multifunctional project where intellectuals and youngsters alike go to dance, drink, eat and enjoy ever-changing exhibitions and performances. You may even bump into a local or international celebrity.
Plaza de la Revolución:
The headquarters of the Cuban government, this square is the default location for gathered crowds to see Fidel Castro’s speeches, Pope visits or large music concerts. It’s the ideal place to take a historical selfie with Havana’s iconic El Che Guevara mural as a backdrop.