Houston Chronicle Sunday

POLISHED ECHOES OFTHE ROMAN EMPIRE

- By Molly Glentzer

We can only imagine how the French farmer Prosper Taurin reacted on the first day of spring in 1830, when his plow struck a bulky object in his field in Normandy, near the village of Berthouvil­le.

Did he patiently step around to inspect what could have been a tree stump? Or, did he utter some early-19th-century equivalent of “merde”? And how quickly his irritation must have turned to awe as the farmer found he had unearthed an ancient Roman tile.

About eight inches farther undergroun­d, Taurin discovered a priceless hoard of heavily tarnished and encrusted, but elaboratel­y decorated, silver and gold objects.

It must have seemed too good to be true, although Taurin was superstiti­ous about touching objects that might be cursed. He used his farm implements to dig up the treasure that had been buried for nearly two millennia, damaging some of the delicate pieces. But he didn’t cash in by melting down the find — 55 pounds of silver that included two statuettes and more than 70 vessels.

Taurin took his cache to a relative who contacted

a lawyer, who alerted French authoritie­s. After a bidding war that involved the Louvre, the Berthouvil­le Treasure, as it came to be known, went to the coins, metals and antiquitie­s department of the French National Library. It has resided there ever since, beside gold, silver and jewels collected from the ancient world by the many kings of France.

This winter, however, the Berthouvil­le Treasure is sparkling at the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, in a show that turns the downstairs gallery of the Beck Building into an exquisite jewel box that provides a rare view into the antiquitie­s of ancient cultures.

That is the final stop on a four-venue tour following a four-year effort by the J. Paul Getty Villa in Malibu, Calif., to research and conserve the collection while the French National Library underwent a building renovation.

Getty curator Kenneth Lapatin, a tall man in his mid-50s with bookish, round spectacles and a mop of silver curls, still sounds excited when he tells the buried-treasure story.

He’s just as fascinated by the knowledge the Berthouvil­le Treasure has yielded about the culture of the Roman Empire, the mysteries that remain and the tantalizin­g sense it gives of what else has been lost. Offerings to Mercury

Centuries before Taurin tilled it, the French farmer’s land was on a far edge of the Roman Empire, near a major crossroads where the River Seine meets the coast of what is now the English Channel.

The site held a shrine, perhaps a place of pilgrimage akin to Lourdes, although it is not mentioned in ancient texts.

When French archaeolog­ists explored Taurin’s property in 1861 and 1896 and recovered more fragments of ancient Rome, they found evidence the site once held a large enclosure of buildings unlike typical Greek or Roman temples. Nine years ago, archaeolog­ists confirmed those subterrane­an features with ground-penetratin­g electrical resistivit­y imaging. They learned the treasure had been stashed in an outside colonnade.

“It seems to have been a vault for a sanctuary that would have been used maybe once or twice a year, when the goodies would be brought out and displayed. Then they were hidden away,” Lapatin said. “Then something happened, and they were never found again. That’s why we have them today.”

The treasures were offerings to the Roman god Mercury, whom the Greeks called Hermes. Familiar to many today as the running FTD Florist figure, Mercury was a minor deity in the heart of the Roman Empire but revered as a bearer of prosperity in the province of Gaul, which became France. Lapatin thinks this temple’s Mercury was probably a Romanized version of a god who had been there a long time.

The objects in the hoard were dedicated by different people at different times. The range of goods — from plain little bowls to lavish, large pitchers — suggests that all levels of society gathered at the temple.

“So we have this microcosm of this community that’s kind of out in the middle of nowhere.”

A woman known as Germanissa (“German woman”) was a major donor. But the most opulent pieces bear Latin inscriptio­ns from the Roman citizen Quintus Domitius Tutus. Most of them were family heirlooms, dedicated later to Mercury as vows.

Lapatin knows this because most of Tutus’ offerings feature motifs about Bacchus, the god of wine, and other famous mythologic­al scenes. Their intri- cate details are rendered in high relief, sometimes embellishe­d with gold.

Lapatin motioned toward a pair of vessels that have outer shells of repoussé work, hammered from behind. Stories within stories unfold in the imagery, which presents opposing themes on each side: a satyr (male centaur) on one side, a maenad (female centaur) on the other; one in ecstasy, one in agony. Surrounded by peacocks, panthers and winged cupids, the centaurs hold miniature vessels with other scenes that inform the narrative.

Lapatin marveled at the astonishin­g detail of a scene with a maenad banging on a drum. In front of her, a panther emerges from a vessel, ridden by a cupid playing a double flute, and behind them, a basket of mystical Dionysian implements rests on a pillar. And that whole scene is reflected, in reverse, in fractions of an inch, the maenad’s drum.

Most of these pieces were made as pairs.

“Games like this are taking place on both sides of this cup, so they respond one to the other, and one cup to the other,” Lapatin said.

For Romans who could afford it, such items would have provided banquet debate about issues such as what it means to live and die heroically, and how you treat dead bodies.

Lapatin thinks a beaker with images of exploits at Isthmia was probably part of a four-piece “collector’s set” that also would have commemorat­ed the Delphian, Nemean and Olympic Games of ancient Greece. The set might have celebrated the winner of a “periodonik­es,” or grand slam.

“All of these objects have lives, and we can really see that unpacking the stories in each one,” Lapatin said. ‘Tons and tons’ of silver

One of the exhibition’s two back galleries offers a glimpse of what archaeolog­ists and conservato­rs are dealing with today when they handle such antiquitie­s — not just piecing broken objects back together or giving them a gentle steam cleaning but also understand­ing rougher repairs made in the 19th century.

The adjacent gallery holds a gorgeous assortment of other ancient treasures from the French National Library, including the “Patera of Rennes,” a shallow libation bowl that is one of the few surviving examples of Roman gold tableware; and the silver and gold plate known as the “Shield of Scipio,” which was taken from the Rhône River in 1656.

During his research, Lapatin visited Berthouvil­le and found Taurin’s land looking much as it would have before the discovery: a small rise with a commanding view of the surroundin­g plain.

Crops of private farmland now cover the 19thcentur­y excavation­s, and a passerby could easily miss the small historical marker on the road.

Even Lapatin will likely never know exactly what happened there two millennia ago. Had the treasure not been buried and forgotten, it would likely not have survived, he said.

“Tons and tons” of Roman silver were melted down during many centuries, and the Berthouvil­le Treasure is better preserved than anything that remains from Pompeii, Herculaneu­m or Rome.

For ancient Romans, who clearly had more riches than they knew what to do with, it would have been a drop in a vast silver bucket.

Trying to wrap his mind around the big question, given the exquisite craftsmans­hip of the luxurious objects on display, Lapatin speaks of ancient history in the present tense: “If this is what’s happening in this small place, kind of distant, what’s happening everywhere else through the empire? … If we’re finding this dedicated by a rich patron out in Berthouvil­le, imagine what we’ve lost from the tables of the senators and emperors of Rome?”

 ?? Bibliothèq­ue Nationale de France ?? The Berthouvil­le Treasure on display at MFAH features silver and gold pieces decorated with images of the gods.
Bibliothèq­ue Nationale de France The Berthouvil­le Treasure on display at MFAH features silver and gold pieces decorated with images of the gods.
 ?? Mark Mulligan / Houston Chronicle ?? “Ancient Luxury and the Roman Silver Treasure From Berthouvil­le” at the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston highlights ancient Roman sculptures, such as this one of Mercury.
Mark Mulligan / Houston Chronicle “Ancient Luxury and the Roman Silver Treasure From Berthouvil­le” at the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston highlights ancient Roman sculptures, such as this one of Mercury.
 ?? Bibliothèq­ue Nationale de France photos ?? Games and other activities are depicted on various vessels.
Bibliothèq­ue Nationale de France photos Games and other activities are depicted on various vessels.
 ?? Mark Mulligan / Houston Chronicle ?? Silver cups, made between 1 and 100 A.D., are part of the exhibition. Many feature detailed scenes.
Mark Mulligan / Houston Chronicle Silver cups, made between 1 and 100 A.D., are part of the exhibition. Many feature detailed scenes.
 ??  ?? Top left: Cameo of Emperor Trajan, circa 100 A.D. Left, cameo of Jupiter, circa 50 A.D.
Top left: Cameo of Emperor Trajan, circa 100 A.D. Left, cameo of Jupiter, circa 50 A.D.

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