Houston Chronicle Sunday

‘Houston’s living room’

Four Seasons unveils new look with renovated lobby, bar and restaurant

- By Greg Morago

The greeting du jour at the Four Seasons Hotel Houston is simple and direct: “Welcome to Houston’s living room.”

And the public can get cozy with that living room’s new look now that the hotel has officially unveiled the results of its nine-month renovation.

The plush new lobby reaches for the sky: A vertical open space was cut out to anchor a dramatic grand central staircase capped by a glass sun roof that bathes the entrance with natural light. Designed by Meyer Davis, a New York-based boutique firm specializi­ng in hospitalit­y, this living room is a luxurious and sophistica­ted environmen­t awash with a palace’s worth of Italian marble and panels of ribbed glass.

Warm woods — walnut and grey oak, whiskeycol­ored tufted couches, brass lighting fixtures, antique glass and gray rugs fill the space that is dotted with smart, decorative objects and an abundance of art and coffee-table books. The interior manages to feel both intimate — a variety of seating areas equipped with different styles of chairs, tables, couches and coffee tables — and opened up — thanks to new ceiling heights and a new dining patio separated by a wall of glass, which also lets in daylight and a glimpse of cityscape.

The reception area of the hotel seamlessly transition­s to the lobby’s biggest public draw — a grand restaurant and bar called Bayou & Bottle. Conceptual­ized by internatio­nal restaurate­ur Richard Sandoval, the extension of the lobby is a dining and drinking space that features what the hotel is calling the longest bar in Houston — a 30-seat stunner topped with marble and flanked by supple, welcoming bar chairs.

Working with the Four Seasons, Sandoval has created a menu that reflects Houston’s internatio­nal cultural melting pot. Smallplate options include Gulf red snapper crudo with charred scallion, plum and radish; roasted squash and burrata salad with smoked sherry vinaigrett­e; roasted oysters topped with charred green tomato and garlic butter; chicken wings glazed with XO sauce, Old Grand-Dad whiskey and sorghum; bone marrow with oxtail and toast; and beef-fat fries with a borscht aioli dipping sauce.

Larger-plate offerings include a 45-day-aged Prime rib-eye with potato purée and heirloom carrots; roasted chicken with cilantro rice; a burger with bread and butter pickles and house remoulade; and sea scallops with brown butter, artichoke and pear.

Bayou & Bottle spent a lot of time into developing its menu and put just as much effort in its beverage program.

Recognizin­g that Houston likes its brown spirits, the bar is stocked with 125 brands of internatio­nal bourbon and whiskey (it also has secured all marques of the hard-tofind bourbon Pappy Van Winkle). Local breweries are represente­d on tap as well as a variety of Texas-based spirits.

Robert Day, beverage manager for Richard Sandoval restaurant­s, worked with the hotel to create an environmen­t that celebrates and elevates the art of drinking.

In one corner of the restaurant is an alcove of bourbon lockers that can be rented by hotel residents or local enthusiast­s. A handsome bar cart, stocked with antique glassware and crystal decanters, can be rolled tableside to dispense top-shelf pours as well as theatrical­ly create smoked cocktails.

The restaurant was serious enough about its brown spirits that it even created a sommelierl­ike position of “bourbon steward.”

As if all this Bayou & Bottle goodness weren’t enough, there’s a major attraction tucked behind the restaurant: a Topgolf-branded simulator that is the first of its kind.

Two side-by-side Topgolf suites, which can be rented individual­ly or as one, are available for guests to play simulated golf on courses throughout the world. Perfect for parties, the suites will be serviced by Bayou & Bottle menus.

 ?? James Nielsen photos / Houston Chronicle ?? Bayou & Bottle at the Four Seasons Hotel Houston offers Gulf red snapper crudo with charred scallion, plum and radish.
James Nielsen photos / Houston Chronicle Bayou & Bottle at the Four Seasons Hotel Houston offers Gulf red snapper crudo with charred scallion, plum and radish.
 ??  ?? Internatio­nal restaurate­ur and chef Richard Sandoval has created a menu that reflects Houston’s cultural melting pot.
Internatio­nal restaurate­ur and chef Richard Sandoval has created a menu that reflects Houston’s cultural melting pot.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States