Houston Chronicle Sunday

Smoke out Houston’s best barbecue spots

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Pay attention to the barbecue scene even a little, and you know that Texas is king. In recent years, Houston is staking its claim as the Lone Star State’s best. Wanna test the theory for yourself ? Here’s a handful of the city’s barbecue houses. Brooks’ Place BBQ Pitmaster Trent Brooks cranks out outstandin­g Central Texasstyle brisket while mixing in occasional specials like smoked oxtails and smoked catfish at his little-trailer-that-could in an Ace Hardware parking lot. Wife Norma helps with sides like garlic potatoes and kicked-up baked beans. Don’t miss Brooks’ bacon-wrapped sausage and cheddar-stuffed jalapeños. Of note: Customers carrying firearms receive a 10 percent discount. 18020 FM 529, Cypress, 832-893-1682; brooksplac­ebbq.com Burns Original BBQ When founder and patriarch Roy Burns passed away a few years ago, the family behind this Acres Homes institutio­n split into several competing barbecue restaurant­s around town. Grandsons Cory and Carl Crawford bought the original location and reunited the family under one roof. The classic East Texas-style barbecue served here includes big, meaty pork spareribs and a killer chopped beef sandwich. 8307½ De Priest, 281-999-5559 Cork-Screw BBQ Pitmaster Will Buckman’s classic Central Texas-style, all-natural prime brisket is among the best in the city. Pork spareribs are huge and perfectly cooked, and the smoked turkey is always a great choice. Really hungry? Try the Whole Hog, a monster sandwich topped with pulled pork, sliced sausage and spare ribs. Just know: if you arrive late, they may be out of what you’re craving. 26608 Keith, Spring, 832-592-1184; corkscrewb­bq.com Gatlin’s BBQ When Greg Gatlin opened his joint in 2010 he brought back a craftsman approach to Houston barbecue with all-wood-burning smokers. What started as a ramshackle house in the Heights is now a contempora­ry location in a shopping center near Oak Forest. Don’t miss the sausage, old-school dirty rice (pungent with liver bits) and the peach cobbler. 3510 Ella, 713-8694227; gatlinsbbq.com Goode Co. BBQ Founded by late, legendary Houston restaurate­ur Jim Goode, the venerable location on Kirby Drive is known for superb Czech-style sausage, as well as a hot jalapeño pork sausage. Son Levi now presides over a menu whose other highlights include pork ribs and stellar sides — try the Jambalaya Texana (Tex-Cajun rice dish) and Austin baked beans. Use the jalapeño cheese bread to sop up Goode’s tangy barbecue sauce and don’t forget a slice of pecan pie. 5109 Kirby, 713-522-2530; goodecompa­ny.com Pappa Charlies Barbeque like Smokeda no-brainer, meatloafbu­t doing seems it well takes a deft touch. Pitmaster Wesley Jurena pulls it off. At his restaurant just east of downtown, he also uses a hot-and-fast cooking method to make top-notch brisket and ribs and soul-satisfying smoked turkey. The meatloaf is an occasional special, call ahead for availabili­ty. Another must-order: jalapeño boudin, a spicy and smoky bit of perfection. 2012 Rusk, 832-940-1719; pappacharl­iesbbq.com Pinkerton’s Barbecue This new restaurant from young pitmaster Grant Pinkerton is making a splash in the Heights. His offerings are emphatical­ly Central Texas in style; colossal beef ribs, almost 2 pounds per bone, have a deliciousl­y charred and crusty bark seasoned with salt and coarse ground pepper. Sides, including smoked duck jambalaya and a crisp coleslaw, are all made in house. Desserts, too. Also on offer: craft cocktails and a list of wines meant to be paired with barbecue. 1504 Airline, 713-8022000; pinkertons­barbecue.com Southern Q Smoked turkey legs are a specialty on weekends here — a throwback to a traditiona­l East Texas-style barbecue dish. Pitmaster Steve Garner has both the rich, fragrant boudin and the spicy, garlicky sausage links made to his recipe by a local butcher. Wife Sherice always offers a welcoming smile for guests who make the trip to this small but destinatio­n-worthy joint in north Houston. 16540 Kuykendahl, 832-250-4851; southernqb­bqcatering.com The Brisket House Pitmaster Wayne Kammerl is distinguis­hed for the quality and consistenc­y of his Central Texas-style ’cue served during both lunch and dinner — a rarity when many of the best joints sell out of meat and close up soon after lunch. The trinity here — brisket, pork ribs and locally-made sausage — is terrific. 5775 Woodway, 281-888-0331; 3301 Cypress Creek Parkway, 832-286-1487; 3217 Center, Deer Park, 281-884-8058; thebrisket­house.com The Pit Room The three types of handmade sausage at this Montrose newbie may be the best in Houston: allbeef sausage loaded with mustard seeds and other spices; pork sausage with chunks of fresh jalapeño and melty cheese; and dense, smoky and peppery venison sausage. Other delights include thoughtful sides and condiments, as well as tacos with flour tortillas made in-house using fat collected from brisket trimmings. 1201 Richmond, 281-888-1929; thepitroom­bbq.com

 ?? J.C. Reid photos ?? CorkScrew BBQ serves up, left, beef rib, turkey, sausage, pulled pork, brisket, macaroni and cheese, coleslaw and peach cobbler, and, center, ribs and brisket. At Burns Original BBQ, right, the links and ribs plate and sandwiches will likely hit the spot.
J.C. Reid photos CorkScrew BBQ serves up, left, beef rib, turkey, sausage, pulled pork, brisket, macaroni and cheese, coleslaw and peach cobbler, and, center, ribs and brisket. At Burns Original BBQ, right, the links and ribs plate and sandwiches will likely hit the spot.
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