Houston Chronicle Sunday

EAT

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Local Faves 6. At The Grey Plume, Clayton Chapman is fidgeting at the farm-to-table restaurant. The chef/owner wants to make his menu more Nebraska and less everyplace else. To reduce imports, and waste, the staff creates its own herbal liquors, colas and tonics as well as condiments, jams, bitters and charcuteri­e. Single ingredient­s, such as celery, will live nine lives as, say, a puree, pickled root, shaved ribbons, garnish and aioli. “The constraint­s can really drive creativity,” Megan Malone, the marketing direc- tor, said over a glass of house chartreuse and heirloom popcorn served in a bowl made of Missouri River clay. However, “constraint” does not translate to simple and spare. Case in point, the duck-fat doughnuts. 7. Stash your cookbooks by Isa Chandra Moskowitz and — role-reversal time — let the famed vegan chef cook for you. Moskowitz opened Modern Love in 2014, two years before her Brooklyn outpost. The plant-based dishes skew toward comfort: Wrap your taste buds around the Modern Cheeseburg­er, the Mac and Shews or the Fully Loaded Noochos. Meat-eaters can distract their inner carnivore with Seitan Wings or Surf and Turf, which the staff updates seasonally. For dessert, no udders were harmed for the ice cream sandwiches. Guidebook Musts 8. “There’s Warren,” said a diner, pointing to a cutout of the famous investor. “He’s right there.” At least once a week, the real Warren shows up at Gorat’s to dine on a 22-ounce T-bone at his preferred table, in a former cloak room. Gorat’s isn’t just a celeb magnet, however; it’s also a survivor. Of the about 50 Italian family-run steakhouse­s establishe­d in the city, only three survive. When Gene Dunn took over in 2012, he restored the interior to its 1940s glory and updated the menu with salads and sandwiches. But the slabs of meat stayed. “The main fare is steaks,” he said, “from Omaha Steaks.” 9. For nearly a decade, Stella’s Bar & Grill, which turned 81 this year, has dared diners to vanquish the Stellanato­r. Only 30 have succeeded; nearly 600 have failed. Guests have 45 minutes (plus 10 minutes to digest) to python-mouth six patties, fried eggs and cheese slices, 12 bacon strips, lettuce, tomato, fried onions, pickles, jalapeños and peanut butter on a bun — with an order of fries. The victor wins a T-shirt, a place on the Wall of Fame and a free meal; the loser earns a spot on the Wall of Shame and a bill for $35. For less-adventurou­s appetites, try Stella’s Staple Burger, which comes with cheese, bacon and a fried egg. Add toppings at your own risk.

 ??  ?? Portraits of the namesake founder are prominentl­y displayed at Stella’s Bar & Grill.
Portraits of the namesake founder are prominentl­y displayed at Stella’s Bar & Grill.
 ??  ?? The neon at Gorat’s — known as billionair­e Warren Buffett’s favorite steakhouse — hasn’t changed much in 70-plus years.
The neon at Gorat’s — known as billionair­e Warren Buffett’s favorite steakhouse — hasn’t changed much in 70-plus years.

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