Barbecue and Big Red — it’s still a tradition
Of the many traditions that define Texas barbecue, one of the oldest and most ingrained is drinking Big Red soda with your plate of smoked meats.
Twenty years ago, long before the craft beer and cocktail revolutions, drink options at barbecue joints were limited. If you wanted an alcoholic beverage, you drank a bottle of Shiner Bock, the flagship dark lager made by the Spoetzl Brewery in Shiner. For kids and workers on their lunch hour, soda was the order — Big Red, specifically.
For those unfamiliar with Big Red, it’s a carbonated and caffeinated soda notable for its bubble-gum flavor and bright red color. Along with Dr Pepper, it’s probably Texas’ most famous contribution to the soda industry. Invented in Waco in 1937 and originally marketed in South and Central Texas, Big Red would eventually become the preferred drink to wash down barbecue at meat-marketstyle joints in Central Texas.
Though I rarely order a Big Red with my barbecue — it’s way too sweet for me — you can still find it on barbecue restaurant menus throughout the state. One place I will occasionally order it is at Louie Mueller Barbecue in Taylor.
“We began serving it in 1974 when my father took over the restaurant and my mother accepted an office manager position with Big Red Bottling Co. in Austin,” says current owner Wayne Mueller. “We’ve been serving it ever since.”
Nowadays, Big Red has been ousted as the traditional beverage of choice by innumerable other options.
However, the characteristics that made Big Red so popular are still reflected in contemporary barbecue beverages.
First, there’s carbonation. There’s something about the fizzy quality of a drink that helps cut through the richness of brisket or the spiciness of sausage.
Instead of Big Red, I usually order an ice-cold bottle of Topo Chico — the addictive, highly carbonated mineral water from Mexico. It’s a great way to stay hydrated while neutralizing the heavy salt and fat of typical barbecue meats.
Second, there’s sweetness. The smoke and salt of barbecue are best complemented with a slightly sweet beverage, and today’s selections of craft beers offered at many barbecue joints are my choice. I’ll grab a Saint Arnold Fancy Lawnmower or Art Car IPA when available. I’ll occasionally order a Shiner Bock for old-time’s sake, too.
More recently, wine is showing up on barbecue joint menus. In general, slightly sweeter wines, like a red grenache or a white riesling, are good bets. The Pit Room has an extensive selection of wine (with notes on how to pair them with the barbecue), and Pinkerton’s BBQ features a carefully selected list of wines as well as craft cocktails.
Cocktails are popping up at barbecue restaurants more often these days, especially at places open for both lunch and dinner, like Pinkerton’s. Bourbon-based drinks are especially popular, as they incorporate the subtle smokiness that infuses some bourbons.
We’ve certainly come a long way from the days when Big Red was the go-to beverage to accompany our smoked meats. Barbecue technique has changed dramatically over the past 10 years, and traditions are changing with it. I certainly don’t order Big Red as much as I used to, but it’s good to know that at many barbecue joints, it’s still on the menu.