On the road again to WEST TEXAS
Fall kicks off high season in Big Bend National Park, and it’s little wonder. The sun isn’t so relentless, the nights can be downright chilly and the leaves of the cottonwoods turn a magical yellow. It’s time to make plans to hit the open road to West Texas.
With wide open sky and scenery for days, you can soak in Texas’ natural beauty with stops in Alpine, Marfa and Marathon. Bonus points: The stars at night are big and bright. First timer? Let our cheat sheet be your guide to the area.
BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK
It’s a 10-hour drive to Big Bend, but don’t let that deter you. With more than 800,000 acres of parkland, it’s the 15th largest national park in the U.S. — but the least visited. This means that even on crowded days, you can have views all to yourself. Just remember to bring your camera, and leave your dog at home — they’re not allowed in the park. With deserts, mountains and even the Rio Grande River in the mix, there’s never a shortage of photos to take. Cottonwoods, maples and sumacs lend fall color. Entrance fees are $25 for a seven-day pass, and $50 for an annual membership. Tape your tag to the windshield and you can come and go as you please.
NEW EXHIBIT: Big Bend’s Fossil Discovery Exhibit opened in January, offering visitors a chance to explore the park’s prehistoric timeline. The interactive exhibit shows the changing landscape of the area over a 120-million-year period, as it morphs from a shallow sea full of predatory fish, to a massive swamp populated with dinosaurs, and eventually the desert it is today. Massive depictions of prehistoric animals and a slew of fossils make it a familyfriendly stop. You’ll find the exhibit 8 miles north of Panther Junction.
FAVORITE HIKES: Window Trail, 5.6 miles (round trip) offers lovely sunset views if you time your hike to begin a little more than two hours before the sun is scheduled to go down. Other well-traveled trials: Grapevine Hills trail to Balanced Rock, 2.2 miles; Santa Elena Canyon, 1.7 miles; Hot Springs Historic Trail, half-mile to the 105-degree springs; Emory Peak, 10.5 miles to the highest peak in the park, with stunning, 360-degree views. You can place an order for a brownbag lunch at the Chisos Mountain Lodge restaurant the night before your excursion, available for pickup after 7 a.m. the day of your hike.
BOQUILLAS CROSSING: If you have your passport, you can take a row boat across the Rio Grande ($5 round trip) to Boquillas del Carmen, Mexico. The tiny village offers horse and burro rides ($8 and $5, respectively), restaurants, border shopping and a cantina. The pass through customs (a trailer in Mexico, an automated machine in the Boquillas Crossing building on the U.S. side) takes only a few minutes.
CHISOS MOUNTAIN LODGE: If you want to stay in the park, the 72-room lodge is centrally located and has a restaurant, a store and an incredible view. The rates start at $140 per night. The lodge also operates the Roosevelt Stone Cottages, six historic cottages built by the CCC. With plenty of demand, and not much supply, you’ll want to plan about a year in advance if you want to snag one of these rooms. 877-386-4383.
CAMPING: There are 184 tent campgrounds across the park with a $14 one-night fee, as well as 25 RV spots, which start at $36. To book a back-country site, you’ll need to check in at one of the visitor centers in person no more than 24 hours in advance, and pay the $12 registration fee. 432-477-2251.
BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK
At 300,000 acres, Big Bend is Texas’s largest state park, and it offers hiking, biking and backpacking. The hiking trails are mostly primitive, marked by rock cairns and a few signs, so be sure to bring a map and plenty of water with you. You’ll get great views on the 5-mile there-and-back trail to the western rim of Fresno Canyon. If you’d prefer biking, try the path to the Solitario Overlook, where you’ll glimpse of the rugged geologic formation. Stay at the Sauceda Bunk House or big Ranch House.
ENTRANCE FEE: $5 at Barton Warnock Visitor Center (open 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m. daily) near Lajitas. Reservations, 512-389-8919; tpwd.state.tx.us/bigbendranch.
MARATHON
The town of Marathon has only about 400 residents, but its location as the gateway to Big Bend National Park brings visitors by the carload. If you’re looking for a place to stay in town, check out the historic Gage Hotel. Here, you’ll find luxury — in the spa, or the 27-acre landscaped gardens — with a rustic touch. If you’re just passing through town, pop in for a quick drink at the bar. Your hiking clothes will be fine. Rooms start at $229 per night; 102 W. U.S. 90, 432-386-4205; gagehotel.com.
DINING: At the 12 Gage Restaurant, you’ll find an ever-changing seasonal menu, featuring everything from locally sourced wild game to fresh seafood. Sit inside or out on the patio, 432-3864205.
SHOPPING: There’s a newly renovated shopping strip just north of the Gage Hotel with a few window-shopping opportunities. Pitaya Verde has Texascentric jewelry, clothing and accessories. The Rusty Rabbit sells home furnishings and art, including original pastels and oil paintings (closed Monday and Tuesday). Evans Gallery features photographs by Big Bend author James H. Evans.
ALPINE
With 6,000 residents, Alpine is the largest town in the Big Bend region of the state. And though it has plenty of cowboy swagger, there’s also a good deal of art, with more than a dozen galleries sprinkled around Route 90. Check out the annual art walk Nov. 17-18; artwalkalpine.com.
HOLLAND HOTEL: The elegant historic hotel, built in 1928 by West Texas’ most famous architects, Trost & Trost, was renovated in 2011, creating what the owners call “the newest old hotel in Texas.” Stop by the hotel’s Century Bar & Grill for a look at the painted ceiling and have a cocktail on the patio. Live music on the weekends. (The train is loud on the hotel’s east side, but earplugs are provided.) Rooms start at $125. 209 W. Holland, 800-535-8040; thehollandhoteltexas.com.
REATA RESTAURANT: Named for the legendary ranch in the classic James Dean movie “Giant,” Reata is West Texas destination dining; there’s no better place to have cowboy cuisine. Reservations are recommended for this homey spot, although there’s often room at the bar. 203 N. 5th, 432-837-9232; reata.net.
MUSEUM OF THE BIG BEND: On the campus of Sul Ross State University, this natural history museum tells the story of the American Indians, Spanish, Mexican and Anglo settlers. There’s also an annual “Trappings of Texas” exhibit, which features cowboy art and artifacts. Open Tuesday-Sunday; museumofthebigbend.com.
ALPINE AUTO RENTAL: If you’re renting a car or trailer in the Big Bend area, this is the place. 2501 E. Texas 90; 432-837-3463.
FORT DAVIS
MCDONALD OBSERVATORY: The sky is different in West Texas, and the McDonald Observatory is the perfect place to explore this. The University of Texas outpost has one of the darkest night skies of any observatory in the country, as well as research telescopes that attract astronomers from around the world. Solar-viewing sessions are at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. daily, but plan to visit during the Star Parties on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday evenings. They book up fast, so make a reservation, 432-426-3640; mcdonaldobservatory.org.
FORT DAVIS NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE: The town of Fort Davis popped up around the military fort, first built in 1854. At this historic site, you’ll see one of the best-preserved “Buffalo Soldier” outposts, complete with restored bunkhouse. You can also catch hiking trails from the fort to Davis Mountains State Park. 8 a.m.-5 p.m. daily. $7 per person. 101 Lt. Henry Flipper, Fort Davis; 432-426-3224; nps.gov/foda.
MARFA
PRADA MARFA: The permanent installation is perhaps the best-known landmark in Marfa these days. But you should take note: Prada Marfa isn’t actually in Marfa. It’s actually about 40 miles away, just northwest of the tiny town of Valentine. It will only take about 30 minutes to get there, thanks to the 80 mph speed limits in West Texas. Bring your camera, and expect to wait a few minutes if you want a clear shot of the exhibit, built in 2005, without any other tourists in it. You’re not the only one with this idea.
EL COSMICO: If you’re in search of a whimsical place to make your Instagram followers jealous, try El Cosmico. They’ve got teepees, yurts, safaris tents and trailers situated throughout a 21-acre property with communal bathhouses. Lounge in the hammocks or the outdoor kitchen area, and listen to your neighbors play the ukulele at the picnic tables. It gets cold in the desert at night, but El Cosmico will make your bed up with heated blankets — and the teepees come equipped with fire pits. Nightly rates start at $85. Book early. 802 S. Highland, 432-7291950; elcosmico.com.
HOTEL SAINT GEORGE: This swanky spot is the newest thing on Marfa’s main drag. The first floor is home to the popular Marfa Book Co., as well as a sleek bar and LaVenture restaurant, run by Texas native chef Allison Jenkins. The hotel has 55 guest rooms and a swimming pool. Rooms start at $125. 105 S. Highland, 432-7293700; marfasaintgeorge.com.
HOTEL PAISANO: Grab a prickly pear margarita on the terrace as you listen to the fountain burble behind you. This historic hotel is a great place to try dinner under the stars at its restaurant, Jett’s Grill, or stay for the night. Designed in 1929, by Trost & Trost, Hotel Paisano became the headquarters for the cast and crew of the movie “Giant” in 1955. Liz Taylor, James Dean and Rock Hudson all stayed here, and there’s plenty of old-time Hollywood memorabilia still hanging in the hallways. (See if you can spot a signed headshot of a young Dennis Hopper.) 207 N. Highland, 866-7293669; hotelpaisano.com.
RESTAURANTS: If you’re looking for stellar coffee and a café-style breakfast, try Squeeze Marfa. There’s plenty of fresh-squeezed juice here, and the egg sandwiches come on delicious baguettes. 215 N. Highland Ave.; 432-7294500. Bring cash to Marfa Burrito, where Ramona Tejada whips up massive burritos on homemade tortillas; 104 E. Waco. For a refined yet rustic take on European cuisine, make a reservation at LaVenture, which is open for dinner only; 105 S. Highland; 432729-3700.
SHOPPING: If you’re staying at El Cosmico, you have to head to the gift shop, where you’ll find all the substance and swag needed for the adventurous traveler, including camping tools, home accents and cute T-shirts that’ll make your friends want to check out Marfa on their own; 802 S. Highland.
TERLINGUA
A former mining town, Terlingua is the quintessential West Texas ghost town. Rugged and sparsely populated, it’s a world away from Houston, but the town still has its charms. You won’t find any four-star stays here, but you will find character.
BIG BEND ART STUDIO: The artwork of Alice Knight lives here. The studio, which has been in operation for 35 years, has everything from acrylic paintings and watercolors to pottery, jewelry and even original music. FM 170 at Terlingua Creek Bridge, 210-226-7220.
STARLIGHT THEATRE RESTAURANT AND SALOON: A nice spot for those who seek live music. There’s also a solid food menu, and the manager books an impressive schedule. 631 Ivey, 432-371-2326; thestarlighttheatre.com.
OUTFITTERS: If you plan to paddle the Rio Grande, take a Jeep tour, mountain bike or hike, check out Big Bend River Tours, 432371-3033; Desert Sports, 888-989-6900; or Far Flung Outdoor Center, 432371-2633.