Display dash warnings: Fault codes need analysis
Q : I have a 2004 Nissan Murano. The AWD light stays on, and after testing we discovered only the right rear wheel has power to it. It’s the only wheel that spins in gravel. Any ideas what the problem could be? Am I causing any damage by driving it? — Nick A : All fault codes need to be performed first. The technician will follow the trouble path for the fault code. The problem could be as simple as a faulty ABS sensor. This is why going to a qualified technician is so important on today’s computer-controlled vehicles. The technician will follow wiring diagrams on Alldata, as well as use the Identifix professional site or even speak with an Identifix technician for help. As for doing any damage driving the vehicle in this condition, no additional problems should arise.
Q : My 2010 Honda CR-V with the 2.4-liter engine has 60,000 miles on it. I would like to change the brake and power steering fluids. Is it okay to drain the reservoirs with turkey basters? — Joe A : We use suction tools every day for removing power steering and brake fluid, but remember, you must always use a separate suction tool for each fluid. Never mix the suction tools. Just a small amount of petroleum fluid into the master cylinder could damage the entire brake system, including the ABS assembly.
Q : My 1998 Corvette Coupe, with only 40,000 miles on the odometer, has a defective traction control module (I think it is part #9367071). The module shuts down while the car is being driven and resets when the engine is off. When the system shuts off the dashboard warning light comes on and the digital readouts repeat “service engine soon” and “service active handling.” I had diagnostics performed on the car twice by two different auto mechanics; both concurred that the module is the problem and stated that General Motors no longer supports this older module, due to its defective design, and that it is impossible to get a replacement. Can you help me? — Harvey
A : There are many companies that rebuild discontinued electronic modules. You can also check major Corvette suppliers, such as Mid America Motorworks at 800-5001500. They may also be able to advise you, if they do not have it in stock.
Q : I am in the market for a four-cylinder midsize sedan. For the first few years the car will be used sparingly — about 8,000 miles per year and mostly short trips around town. Should I avoid turbocharged engines due to the possibility of not getting up to proper engine temps and the lubrication issues pertaining to the turbo? Can this problem be avoided by more frequent oil changes and a specific type of oil? — John
A : This is a great topic. Turbochargers are generally used on smalldisplacement four-cylinder engines to add power and improve fuel economy, and on performance engines they bring lots of additional power. If you find a vehicle you like with a turbocharged engine, then feel free to buy the vehicle with no concerns. The use of fullsynthetic oil is mandatory on turbocharged engines, as well as on a lot of new vehicles. Some turbocharged engines suggest the use of premium gasoline to get optimum power. The new Toyota Camry V-6 offers around 300 horsepower and great gas mileage. Most midsize imports are going to smaller turbo and some twin-turbo engines. Buy the car you like and that best fits your needs.
Q : Having always been a Honda man I decided to lease a Lexus for a change. What’s up with the eight-speed transmission on these vehicles? At slow speeds the thing shifts way too fast and when I take my foot off the gas for a second, like in traffic situations, then press it again, it hits a dead spot, and then lurches. The programming seems somewhat confused as to what it should be doing. Have you heard any similar complaints? —Ned
A : You are not alone. Many of the seven- to 10-speed automatics have owners concerned about the shifting, both up and down. It will take car manufacturers a year or so to figure out a reprogramming update. You can talk to the dealer about disconnecting the battery for an hour or so, which will put the transmission in a learning mode on your driving habits. This has made a difference on many vehicles and it does not cost anything but time.
Q : The right rear wheel of my 2005 Toyota Camry is making a scraping sound when driving forward, but not in reverse. My mechanic replaced the rotor with a high-grade ceramic pad, and replaced the rear calipers as well. I don’t hear the scraping sound everyday, but definitely when driving slowly around town — it’s loud enough to get people’s attention. Can you help? —Harold
A : The back wheel of your Toyota has parking brake shoes that are small in size and contact the inside of the brake rotor when the parking brake is applied. I have seen the shoe hold-down springs and mounts rust out and cause scraping sounds. There are also small stainless-steel clips that often move and can cause a scraping sound, as well as a rear wheel bearing that can be rusted. Have the technician recheck the parking brake and rear hub and bearing, or try another shop.
Q : I own a 2012 Ford Fusion. The air conditioning works intermittently. Heated air blows from the vents and cancels the a/c. When the a/c is working it’s very cold. How do I find the source of the problem? — John
A : Have a technician check the body control module for fault codes. A fault code in this system will not set the check engine light on. The technician will also check the pressure in the system, along with the A/C compressor and electric cooling fan operation. These are the first steps that need to be performed.