Building the perfect barbecue joint: brisket
Editor’s note: This is the third column in a series in which Reid provides advice to would-be barbecue entrepreneurs on how to build the perfect barbecue joint. The first two columns addressed service style and smoker types; today’s focus is on the menu of meats — specifically brisket — necessary to satisfy both the taste and expectations of potential customers.
Standing in front of the menu board on the first visit to a new barbecue joint is both comforting and provocative.
Ten years ago, the experience would be mostly comforting — the “Texas Trinity” of brisket, sausage and pork ribs was the foundation of the smoked-meat offerings. This being Houston, you might also have found regional specialties such as boudin or pork rib tips.
More recently, the menu may be more provocative (and Instagram-worthy), with items replacing the traditional — beef cheeks instead of brisket, pork belly instead of ribs, meatloaf instead of sausage.
For the would-be barbecue entrepreneur, deciding which smoked meats to serve is a balancing act between the new and the traditional that will dictate how diners, critics and selfproclaimed barbecue experts judge his or her restaurant from Day 1. Sure, adjustments can be made on the fly, but first impressions often are most enduring when it comes to the hyper-competitive world of Texas barbecue. The most important goal for an aspiring pitmaster is to get the basics right, i.e., the Texas Trinity. No menu of fancy pork belly or beef cheeks can overcome poorly executed brisket, ribs or sausage. We’ll assume our pitmaster has acquired the necessary skills and equipment to cook great barbecue. Beyond that, the pitmaster faces several choices that will impact whether the barbecue will be great or merely good.
Let’s start with brisket, the cornerstone of Texas barbecue. Two primary factors affect brisket quality — size and grade.
It’s crucial to retain a meat distributor that can provide briskets of a consistent size. Different-size briskets take different times to cook. If a pitmaster loads a dozen different-size briskets on the smoker, he or she must essentially cook each brisket individually. In this scenario, there is a greater chance that one brisket may be over- or undercooked. Using briskets of a consistent size and shape minimizes the hands-on work of the pitmaster, essentially automating the process, thus assuring greater quality.
The “grade” of the brisket — essentially a measure of quality and fat content (flavor) — offers more wiggle room. There’s an old saying in the barbecue business: In the hands of a skilled pitmaster, even the lowest grade of commercial beef — known as “select” — can be turned into world-class barbecue.
Based on my own off-therecord conversations with pitmasters, I’d suggest that many barbecue aficionados would be surprised at how many highly regarded barbecue joints use select-grade brisket.
That said, the cost of upgrading to the next level of “choice” brisket is minimal. There’s even a sub-grade called “upper choice” that is the perfect sweet spot for new barbecue joints because it balances high quality with reasonable cost.
As the barbecue restaurant gains a loyal following and solid financial footing, the pitmaster may then consider upgrading to the highest “prime” grade.
Though I would challenge any barbecue aficionado (myself included) to distinguish between upper choice and prime brisket in a blind taste test, there are reasons for an ambitious pitmaster to make the upgrade.
In my experience, I’d suggest the most talented pitmasters can in fact coax even more flavor and texture from a prime brisket over upper choice. Also, prime briskets are often marketed as “all natural,” or beef produced without the use of hormones or antibiotics. This can be a significant draw for some health- and environmentally conscious consumers.
Once the brisket is perfected, the pitmaster can then consider offering different cuts of beef that are both delicious and buzzworthy. The dinosaur-style plate beef rib is an obvious choice to attract the flashing cameras of barbecue bloggers.
More recent and trendy menu items include beef cheeks (the basis of Mexican barbacoa) and oxtails, two dishes that have a long history in Texas barbecue.
Indeed, a close analysis of menus at contemporary barbecue joints reveals dishes that have been around for years but are presented or prepared in a new way. In Texas barbecue, as in many other cuisines, the mantra is often, “What’s old is new again.”