Frequent ignition burnout? Inspect electrical components
Q : I own a 2008 Buick LaCrosse with about 28,000 miles. I have replaced the ignition module four times. This has cost me a tidy sum of money, not to mention the inconvenience of being towed. I was told I “don’t use the car enough.” I can understand that could explain hoses or tires degrading but can this cause an ignition module to burn out? Should I get rid of the car? What suggestions can you offer? — Enid.
A : I have seen this problem before on older General Motors V-6 engines. Check the engine grounds and items that are voltagerelated. Poor grounds can often burn out the primary circuits in electronic components. Voltage spikes from ignition coils or alternators that have an erratic charging rate can all contribute to module failure. Have the technician do a complete electrical system check, including the battery.
Q : My 1999 BMW 528i won’t start. It shut off on the freeway and wouldn’t turn on, not even the dash lights. I swapped out the battery, but still no lights. This once happened on my old Honda and it turned out to be the distributor. Could this be the same thing? — Omar.
A : The BMW voltage needs to be checked from the battery forward. If the battery has 12 volts and the ground strap is connected and has a clean connection, then your research moves to all of the fuses and connections. For the car to shut off as yours did, it seems like there was a loss of voltage in the system, which needs to be addressed by you or a technician. The bad distributor on your Honda would not cause the lights not to work.
Q : My 2017 Toyota Corolla with 37,000 miles has an engine that vibrates more than normal. When the transmission is in Park and I step on the gas and rev up the engine it vibrates like a fast-beating heart. This also happens on my Honda Civic with 123,000 miles; it just roars when I rev it up in Park. — Paul.
A : My first thoughts are metal contact from a collapsed engine mount that could be sending a vibration through the car. This is a very common problem on a variety of four-cylinder vehicles. A technician will check the mounts with the engine at idle and the vibration present. He will then use a large pry bar and move the engine slightly to see if the vibration changes. This will determine if the vibration is related to the engine mounts.
Q : I’m about to buy a 2015 Toyota Camry with 20,000 miles. The car looks wonderful. The only thing, though, is that the dealer told me the car had an accident. It was hit from behind but it was repaired and there’s now no visible sign of damage. The dealership I’m buying the car from has a good reputation. Is there anything else I can do just to ensure the car is all right? — Jan.
A : The dealer did the right thing by disclosing the car had been hit. Before you buy it, I recommend you bring the car to an independent auto body shop for their opinion. If the body technician says the car is good, then yes, I would buy the car.
Q : I own a 2015 Honda Civic. The maintenance manual recommendation is based on typical driving conditions of about 10,000 miles per year, which I do not do. I only have 7,000 miles on my car after two years of ownership. By the time I reach the manual’s recommendation for oil changes, it will be in a couple of years instead of every year to change the oil. I change the oil every six months. Am I am doing the correct thing? — Elena.
A : Yes, in my opinion you’re doing the right service to ensure the internal engine parts are well lubricated. Make sure you are using the correct oil and filter that meet the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Q : During slippery road conditions when I stop short, there is a grinding sound and a grinding feeling in the brake pedal of my Nissan Frontier. I took the vehicle to the dealer for a brake inspection and was told the brake material was about 50 percent worn. Have you heard of this? — Anonymous.
A : Some vehicles with metallic or semimetallic brake material will give a grinding sound under short stops. The grinding feeling will not usually be felt in the brake pedal. The grinding feeling in the brake pedal is usually from the antilock brake system actually engaging. Before the next wet weather conditions ask the dealer or local shop to disconnect the anti-lock brake system or show you what to unplug for test purposes only. If the grinding feeling is gone, the feeling is normal from the anti-lock brake system working.
Junior Damato is an ASEcertified Master Technician. Email questions for publication to info@motormatters.biz.