On the road with the great writers of Texas
Take advantage of the state’s thriving literary scene with these sojourns
There is something about Texas that keeps writers coming back. From Cormac McCarthy’s descriptions of the searing beauty of the borderlands to Naomi Shihab Nye’s intimate poems about San Antonio, the state has left its mark on the literary scene. Spend an afternoon tracking down rare books in Archer City, or explore the bayous and back roads of East Texas to discover why Texas has a hold on so many writers.
Track down a rare find at Booked Up Archer City
“Customers come to us from wherever the four winds blow,” writes Larry McMurtry about Booked Up, his legendary store featuring fine, rare and scholarly books. And indeed book lovers from around the world have made the pilgrimage to Archer City, two hours northwest of Dallas, to visit one of Texas’ literary greats. McMurtry, author of the novels “Lonesome Dove” and “Terms of Endearment” and the screenplay for “Brokeback Mountain” among many other works, has said he is a slave to books. The four converted warehouses that make up Booked Up are testament. And although sightings of McMurtry himself are hard to come by, you’re sure to leave with at least a few books from his handpicked collection.
Spend an afternoon at the Harry Ransom Center Austin
This gray stone building tucked into the corner of the University of Texas campus looks unassuming, but inside is a treasure trove. Among its collection of more than one million rare or significant books are writings from Beckett, Hemingway, DeLillo, Joyce, Kerouac, Sexton and Whitman. If that isn’t overwhelming enough, some of the most recently acquired collections include the archives of Gabriel García Márquez, Kazuo Ishiguro, Julia Alvarez and David Foster Wallace. No matter what your literary taste, the Harry Ransom Center includes enough material to while away many an afternoon. Just know that the reading rooms are often full, so contact the center before visiting to make sure you can access what you want to see.
Connect with other writers at Gemini Ink San Antonio
San Antonio has a vibrant literary community and one of its hubs is Gemini Ink. Founded by novelist Nan Cuba and associated with poet Naomi Shihab Nye, the organization has hosted authors such as Juan Felipe Herrera, Sandra Cisneros, and Margaret Atwood. But in addition to putting on big-name events, Gemini Ink also is deeply involved in the community, sending writers into schools and other institutions. If you’re a writer, you can attend one of the community’s regular workshops or its annual writers conference. And for readers, the organization puts on readings, seminars and open mic nights throughout the year.
Get to know Cormac McCarthy at the Wittliff Collections San Marcos
While Cormac McCarthy is famously reclusive, those who want to get a little closer to the legendary novelist can visit his archives at the Wittliff Collections at Texas State University. Housed in an elegant gallery at the top floor of the Albert B. Alkek Library are McCarthy’s personal papers, as well as his handwritten letters, notes for novels like “Blood Meridian,” and drafts of two of his screenplays. And while there, immerse yourself in the writings of other writers with close ties to Texas, including Sandra Cisneros, Sam Shepard, J. Frank Dobie and Naomi Shihab Nye.
Attend an evening reading at the Katherine Anne Porter Literary Center Kyle
After visiting the Wittliff, stop by the Katherine Anne Porter Literary Center, the childhood home of the Pulitzer Prize-winning writer and political activist who published the best-selling “Ship of Fools” when she was 71 years old. Visitors can tour the beautifully preserved Victorian house that is a tribute to Porter, who was known for delicately crafted short fiction about her childhood in central Texas. The historic site also is home to a literary reading series sponsored by Texas State University. The fall 2018 schedule is packed with notable writers, including Tyehimba Jess, Valeria Luiselli and Marie Howe.
Road trip along Highway 59
Attica Locke left Texas for Los Angeles, where she worked on the hit series “Empire.” But the Houston native was drawn home to write a series of novels set in her home state. She writes, “My bloodline runs along Highway 59 in East Texas.” Locke’s newest novel, “Bluebird, Bluebird,” a crime thriller that uncovers racial tensions in small-town Texas, has been picked up by FX with plans to turn it into a series. Explore what brought Locke home again in the cafes and small towns of East Texas.
Cate Malek is a writer in Austin. Email: travel@chron.com.