Houston Chronicle Sunday

Select small-sized, easy-to-handle tools

- By James Dulley Send your questions to Here’s How, 6906 Royalgreen Drive, Cincinnati, OH 45244 or visit www.dulley.com.

Q: I want to do some outdoor projects, such as adding a deck, a trellis, etc. Being petite, many tools are difficult to work with. Can I get smallersiz­e tools, and do you have any tips? — Beth L.

A: You should be able to do most of the outdoor projects that a larger person can do, but it may take you longer. That unattracti­ve extra weight around a male contractor’s stomach certainly does come in handy when trying to push a shovel into dense clay soil.

Smaller and lighter tools will be much easier for you to work with. For example, a large shovel is not only heavier and awkward for you to handle, but it also takes more force to use. When you attempt to push a shovel into the ground, the amount of force required is a function of how much soil you are moving.

A common flat-blade shovel can have a surface area as large as 80 square inches. Instead of trying to use one of these in hard soil, use a smaller one, such as a border spade. A typical border spade is only 50 square inches and can weigh as much as 20% lighter. It will take many more scoops to dig the same size hole, but it will be possible even for a petite woman.

You can check the weight of various tools when you are visiting your home center or hardware store. You will likely find tools with fiberglass handles are lighter weight than ones with solid wood handles. Fiberglass handles are also much stronger than wood, and they are not harmed by moisture.

To make the projects as simple as possible, always select the proper tools for the specific job. Whenever you start digging a hole or trench in the ground, use a round-point shovel and use it to get to the depth you desire. A flat spade requires much more effort to dig the hole. If you are having trouble controllin­g a shovel with a long straight handle, use a one with a shorter D handle.

Once the hole is dug to the desired depth, switch to the flat spade to enlarge and shape it. Use it in a peeling motion and remove only thin slices. If you have trouble, sharpen its edge with a fine file. Flare out the hole at the bottom so concrete poured around a post is locked in place.

When digging very small holes, or larger ones in hard soil, use a trenching or duckbill shovel. Gardeners often use these when planting bulbs. The head of the shovel is only about 5 inches wide, so you should be able to push it through almost any type of soil.

Stainless-steel tools, because of their strength, are often made of lightergau­ge metal than plain steel ones, so they are lighter. Stainless steel also will not rust, so the tool surface stays cleaner. For example, the weight of a shovel can be 50% higher just from the damp dirt that sticks to it.

A drill is an indispensa­ble tool. Cordless tools are generally heavier than corded ones, but they are more convenient to use. Higher-voltage ones have more power, but the IR battery pack is also heavier. Compare various drills and choose one with a lithium ion battery.

Q: From the ground, the gutters don’t look dirty, but when it rains, water overflows and runs down the walls. I think it may discolor the siding. What is causing them to overflow and how can I fix it? — Karen J.

A: There are several causes of overflowin­g gutters. They are either clogged, rusted and leak at the seams, and/or they are loose or sloped the incorrect direction. You will not know which of the problems you have until you get up on a ladder to clean and actually inspect the gutters.

Overflowin­g gutters can cause more problems than just staining the siding. The repeated dampness may cause wood siding to rot. A more serious problem is when the gutters overflow and the water backs up under the shingles and gets inside the wall cavity. The likelihood of termite infestatio­n also increases.

You really should clean and inspect your gutters twice a year, in autumn and spring. If you cannot do it yourself and cannot afford two cleanings per year, clean it once after the last of the leaves have fallen in late autumn. Don’t wait until spring, because seeds will have sprouted, and it will be much more difficult to clean out.

After you have the gutters cleaned out, remove the rag from the downspout opening. Move the ladder to the other end of the gutter. Flush the gutter with a garden hose and observe the flow of the water. It should flow toward the downspout, and there should be very little standing water when you turn off the water. Also, check for leaks from beneath the gutters.

If you notice some leaky spots, hopefully they are at the seams. You can repair these with caulk and probably get many more years of service before the gutters need to be replaced. If the leaks are from a non-seam section, the gutters likely need to be replaced.

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