Beyond Bora Bora
Guesthouses on under-the-radar islands in French Polynesia are worth the trek
Sure, we all have visions of resting our heads in a lavish overwater bungalow above the turquoise South Pacific, the kind that populate abundant honeymooner-savvy resorts around exotic French Polynesia. But sometimes,
— and you’ll have to take my word on this — staying at those resorts can feel a bit … indistinguishable. Besides: There are 118 Tahitian islands and atolls to explore, full of local flavor and varied landscapes. Here are a few outside-the-Bora-Bora-box ideas.
DIVER’S PARADISE Tikehau
Part of the Tuamotu archipelago about 200 miles north of the main island of Tahiti, the Tikehau atoll features a coral reef surrounding its central lagoon. The general vibe is rustic and quaint. The natural environment is not: Water here somehow seems more vivid; fish more diverse and abundant; sunsets more fiery.
Ninamu, one of only a few lodging options on Tikehau, is a perfect base from which to soak it all in. The all-inclusive, offthe-grid resort’s eight unique palm-frond-thatched bungalows were crafted using wood from local trees. Coral pieces form walls and pedestal sinks. Lofted beds, draped elegantly in mosquito netting, peer out to the water — which is where you’ll want to spend most of your time. (Bungalows do not have air conditioning anyway.)
Ninamu’s boat leads to all manner of watersports adventure. One day I was snorkeling just beyond “the pass,” followed by schools upon schools of fish as a big-lipped Napoleon fish allowed me to stroke its velvety skin and a sea turtle paddled deeper below. The next I was on “bird island” watching blacktip sharks fight for scraps near the shoreline of a pink-sand beach. Another I was learning to spearfish with a guide who could hold his breath for nearly four minutes, waiting sniperlike on the sandy lagoon floor for parrotfish, our dinner target.
Upon return: A snack, perhaps crackers topped with hummus and fresh fish eggs; a hot shower in my bungalow; a cocktail in the communal, open-air living room while petting one of the resort’s three friendly dogs; and a filling dinner of pan-fried local tuna followed by purple taro ice cream as the sky lit up.
Marooned? Yes. This reporter wrote, unoriginally, in her notebook multiple times: “This is some real Robinson Crusoe (expletive).” If that’s not your thing, consider booking the whole property with a group of pals. May the lagoon be your oyster.
Ninamu rates from about $250 per night; motuninamu.com
FAR-FLUNG CULTURE Tahaa
Getting to the latke-shaped “vanilla island,” in the western Leeward group, involves a scenic 30-minute boat ride from the Raiatea-Tahaa airport, but familial warmth awaits.
Home here is Fare Pea Iti, a petite guest house with nine well-appointed bungalows; mine was beach-side, with a comfy four-poster bed, sizable covered patio and private jacuzzi. In the morning, breakfast is served al fresco near the pool. Tarita, the gardener responsible for the beautifully manicured tropical expanse, may stop by to say hello.
Tarita is one of many characters on this character-filled island. Covered head to toe in tattoos — including his face — he is a master of fire dance, one of the best performers in French Polynesia. He traveled the world as a dancer but missed his family and moved back home — which happens to be 200 yards from Fare Pea Iti. I was told he got bored, so he became a gardener.
Visitors could hardly be bored. A windy afternoon made a snorkeling excursion all the more exciting, as did our macho guide, who pulled an octopus out from a coral formation only to be sprayed comically with its dark ink. From there, we learned to crack a coconut and wandered amid banana and lemon trees on a lush islet.
A visit to one of Tahaa’s vanilla plantations is a must, of course. If you’re fairly fit, grab one of the Fare Pea Iti’s bicycles and head to La Vallée De La Vanille, where a man named Fredo will expound on why Tahitian vanilla is superior to all others (and sell you some when the tour’s over). Another option: touring a real-deal pearl farm or boating over to Vahine Island, a posh resort with a stellar destination spa.
Dinner is served nightly in Fare Pea Iti’s tres French fivetable restaurant. If you see a cracking tool in front of you, it’s your lucky day: Local fishermen have caught lobster. Fare Pea Iti rates from about $240 per night; farepeaiti.pf.
UNPLUGGED ADVENTURE Tahiti Iti
Tahiti Iti is part of the figureeight-shaped main island of Tahiti, home to the international airport, but as your driver en route to Vanira Lodge might explain, “It’s like another island.” Over the course of 90 minutes, as the road winds between mountains and the
sea, you will pass tiny villages and churches and watch as houses grow sparse, surrounding terrain even more wild.
Just before the end of that coastal road, you will reach Teahupoo, a bucket-list town for surfers. Vanira’s thatchedroof huts pop up like mushrooms on the hillside overlooking the mythical waves. For the best panoramic view, head to the pool — or follow signs for the steep-but-well-trod trail farther up.
Vanira isn’t fancy — the onsite cafe serves a terrific version of French Polynesia’s beloved coconutty marinated fish dish, poisson cru — but it’s well suited for outdoor pursuits. Book a half- or full-day excursion with Tahiti Iti Tour & Surf to get the lay of the land.
My guide, Yohann, started by speeding his boat to the worldpopular surf spot, where we watched an 8-year-old kid ride an impressive wave. A little farther south, locals live on the land without electricity, water or internet. Yohann told me the Tahitian government once attempted to build a road to the end of the lagoon, but residents preferred to keep things natural.
And how: Greener-than-green valleys mix with steep peaks and waterfalls galore. Yohann maneuvered into a rocky crevasse, into the Vaipori River, where we disembarked for a hike through a lush forest of mape (Polynesian chestnut) trees until we reached a cave for an icy dip. Back on the lagoon’s open water, we stopped for a quick snorkel around a sandbar before returning to Teahupoo as the powerful, is-this-real-life scenery blurred by.
My stay was too short, and I longed to adventure farther inland next time. On my way back to Papeete, my driver commented, “very nice, Tahiti Iti,” as if she missed it already. I nodded knowingly.
Vanira Lodge rates from about $125; vaniralodge.com . Tahiti Iti Tour & Surf boat tour from about $60 per person for half day.