Houston Chronicle Sunday

For planet Earth, no tourism is a curse and a blessing

- By Lisa W. Foderaro

For the planet, the year without tourists was a curse and a blessing.

With flights canceled, cruise ships mothballed and vacations largely scrapped, carbon emissions plummeted. Wildlife that usually kept a low profile amid a crush of tourists in vacation hot spots suddenly emerged. And a lack of cruise ships in places such as Alaska meant that humpback whales could hear each other’s calls without the din of engines.

That’s the good news. On the flip side, the disappeara­nce of travelers wreaked its own strange havoc, not only on those who make their living in the tourism industry but on wildlife, especially in developing countries. Many government­s pay for conservati­on and enforcemen­t through fees associated with tourism. As that revenue dried up, budgets were cut, resulting in more poaching and illegal fishing in some areas. Illicit logging rose, too, presenting a double whammy for the environmen­t. Because trees absorb and store carbon, cutting them down hurt wildlife habitats and contribute­d to climate change.

“We have seen many financial hits to the protection of nature,” said Joe Walston, executive vice president of global conservati­on at the Wildlife Conservati­on Society. “But even where that hasn’t happened, in a lot of places people haven’t been able to get into the field to do their jobs because of COVID.”

From the rise in rhino poaching in Botswana to the waning of noise pollution in Alaska, the lack of tourism has had a profound effect around the world. The question moving forward is which impacts will remain, and which will vanish, in the recovery.

A change in the air

Though the pandemic’s impact on wildlife has varied widely from continent to continent, and country to country, its effect on air quality was felt more broadly.

In the United States, greenhouse-gas emissions last year fell more than 10 percent, as state and local government­s imposed lockdowns and people stayed home, according to a report in January by the Rhodium Group, a research and consulting firm.

The most dramatic results came from the transporta­tion sector, which posted a 14.7 percent decrease. It’s impossible to tease out how much of that drop is from lost tourism versus business travel. And there is every expectatio­n that as the pandemic loosens its grip, tourism will resume — likely with a vengeance.

Still, the pandemic helped push American emissions below 1990 levels for the first time. Globally, carbon dioxide emissions fell 7

percent, or 2.6 billion metric tons, according to new data from internatio­nal climate researcher­s. In terms of output, that is about double the annual emissions of Japan.

“It’s a lot, and it’s a little,” said Jason Smerdon, a climate scientist at Columbia University’s LamontDohe­rty Earth Observator­y. “Historical­ly, it’s a lot. It’s the largest single reduction percentwis­e over the last 100 years. But when you think about the 7 percent in the context of what we need to do to mitigate climate change, it’s a little.”

For climate activist Bill McKibben, one of the first to sound the alarm about global warming in his 1989 book, “The End of Nature,” the pandemic underscore­d that the climate crisis won’t be averted one plane ride or gallon of gas at a time.

“We’ve come through this pandemic year when our lives changed more than any of us imagined they ever would,” McKibben said during a Zoom webinar hosted in February by the nonprofit Green Mountain Club of Vermont.

“Everybody stopped flying; everybody stopped commuting,” he added. “Everybody just stayed at home. And emissions did go down, but they didn’t go down that much, maybe 10 percent, with that incredible shift in our lifestyles. It means that most of the damage is located in the guts of our systems, and we need to reach in and rip out the coal and gas and oil and stick in the efficiency, conservati­on and sun and wind.”

Wildlife regroups

In meaningful ways, the pandemic revealed that wildlife will regroup if given the chance. In Thailand, where tourism plummeted after authoritie­s banned internatio­nal flights, leatherbac­k turtles laid their eggs on the usually mobbed Phuket Beach. It was the first time nests were seen there in years, as the endangered sea turtles, the largest in the world, prefer to nest in seclusion.

Similarly, in Koh Samui, Thailand’s second-largest island,

hawksbill turtles took over beaches that in 2018 hosted nearly 3 million tourists. The hatchlings were documented emerging from their nests and furiously moving their flippers toward the sea.

For Petch Manopawitr, a marine-conservati­on manager of the Wildlife Conservati­on Society Thailand, the sightings were proof that natural landscapes can recover quickly. “Both Ko Samui and Phuket have been overrun with tourists for so many years,” he said in a phone interview. “Many people had written off the turtles and thought they would not return. After COVID, there is talk about sustainabi­lity and how it needs to be embedded in tourism, and not just a niche market but all kinds of tourism.”

In addition to the sea turtles, elephants, leaf monkeys and dugongs (related to manatees) all made cameos in unlikely places in Thailand. “Dugongs are more visible because there is less boat traffic,” Manopawitr said. “The area that we were surprised to see dugongs was the eastern province of Bangkok. We didn’t know dugongs still existed there.”

He and other conservati­onists believe that countries in the cross hairs of internatio­nal tourism need to mitigate the myriad effects on the natural world, from plastic pollution to trampled parks.

That message apparently reached the top levels of government. In September, Thailand’s natural resources and environmen­t minister, Varawut Silpaarcha, said he planned to shutter national parks in stages each year, from two to four months. The idea, he told Bloomberg News, is to set the stage so that “nature can rehabilita­te itself.”

An increase in poaching

In other parts of Asia and across Africa, the disappeara­nce of tourists has had nearly the opposite result. With safari tours scuttled and enforcemen­t budgets decimated, poachers have plied their nefarious trade with impunity. At the same time, hungry villagers have streamed into protected areas to hunt and fish.

There were reports of increased poaching of leopards and tigers in India, an uptick in the smuggling of falcons in Pakistan and a surge in traffickin­g of rhino horns in South Africa and Botswana.

Jim Sano, the World Wildlife Fund’s vice president for travel, tourism and conservati­on, said that in sub-Saharan Africa, the presence of tourists was a powerful deterrent. “It’s not only the game guards,” he said. “It’s the travelers wandering around with the guides that are omnipresen­t in these game areas. If the guides see poachers with automatic weapons, they report it.”

In the Republic of Congo, the Wildlife Conservati­on Society has noticed more trapping and hunting in and around protected areas. Emma J. Stokes, regional director of the Central Africa program for the organizati­on, said that in Nouabalé-Ndoki National Park, monkeys and forest antelopes were being targeted for bushmeat.

“It’s more expensive and difficult to get food during the pandemic, and there is a lot of wildlife up there,” she said by phone. “We obviously want to deter people from hunting in the park, but we also have to understand what’s driving that because it’s more complex.”

The Society and the Congolese government jointly manage the park, which spans 1,544 square miles of lowland rainforest — larger than Rhode Island. Because of the coronaviru­s, the government imposed a national lockdown, halting public transporta­tion. But the organizati­on was able to arrange rides to markets since the park is considered an essential service. “We have also kept all 300 of our park staff employed,” she added.

Largely absent: whir of propellers, hum of engines

While animals around the world were subject to rifles and snares during the pandemic, one thing was missing: noise. The whir of helicopter­s diminished as some air tours were suspended. And cruise ships from the Adriatic Sea to the Gulf of Mexico were largely absent. That meant marine mammals and fish had a break from the rumble of engines and propellers.

So did research scientists. Michelle Fournet is a marine ecologist who uses hydrophone­s (essentiall­y aquatic microphone­s) to listen in on whales. Although the total number of cruise ships (a few hundred) pales in comparison to the total number of cargo ships (tens of thousands), Fournet says they have an outsize role in creating underwater racket. That is especially true in Alaska, a magnet for tourists in search of natural splendor.

“Cargo ships are trying to make the most efficient run from point A to point B, and they are going across open ocean where any animal they encounter, they encounter for a matter of hours,” she said. “But when you think about the concentrat­ion of cruise ships along coastal areas, especially in southeast Alaska, you basically have five months of near-constant vessel noise. We have a population of whales listening to them all the time.”

Man-made noise during the pandemic dissipated in the waters near the capital of Juneau, as well as in Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve. Fournet, a postdoctor­al research associate at Cornell University, observed a threefold decrease in ambient noise in Glacier Bay between 2019 and 2020. “That’s a really big drop in noise,” she said, “and all of that is associated with the cessation of these cruise ships.”

Two years ago, in a move to protect Puget Sound’s tiny population of Southern Resident killer whales, which number just 75, Washington Gov. Jay Inslee signed a law reducing boat speeds to 7 knots within half a nautical mile of the whales and increasing a buffer zone around them, among other things.

Many cheered the protection­s. But environmen­tal activists including Catherine W. Kilduff, a senior attorney in the oceans program at the Center for Biological Diversity, think they did not go far enough. She wants the respite from noise that whales have enjoyed to continue.

“The best tourism is whalewatch­ing from shore,” she said.

Looking ahead

Debates like this are likely to continue as the world emerges from the pandemic and leisure travel resumes. Already, conservati­onists and business leaders are sharing their visions for a more sustainabl­e future.

Tom L. Green, a senior climatepol­icy adviser with the David Suzuki Foundation, an environmen­tal organizati­on in Canada, said tourists might consider booking a flight only once every few years, saving their carbon footprint (and money) for a special journey. “Instead of taking many short trips, we could occasional­ly go away for a month or more and really get to know a place,” he said.

For Walston of the Wildlife Conservati­on Society, tourists would be wise to put more effort into booking their next resort or cruise, looking at the operator’s commitment to sustainabi­lity.

“My hope is not that we stop traveling to some of these wonderful places because they will continue to inspire us to conserve nature globally,” he said. “But I would encourage anyone to do their homework. Spend as much time choosing a tour group or guide as a restaurant. The important thing is to build back the kind of tourism that supports nature.”

 ?? Christophe­r Miller / New York Times ?? From the rise in poaching to the waning of noise pollution, travel’s shutdown is having profound effects.
Christophe­r Miller / New York Times From the rise in poaching to the waning of noise pollution, travel’s shutdown is having profound effects.
 ?? Khalil Senosi / Associated Press ?? There were reports of a surge in traffickin­g of rhino horns in South Africa and Botswana.
Khalil Senosi / Associated Press There were reports of a surge in traffickin­g of rhino horns in South Africa and Botswana.

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