J.C. Reid’s picks for the best Texas barbecue in 2022
Texas barbecue continues to spin off in new and delicious directions. Though the Texas trinity of brisket, pork ribs and sausage will always be the touchstone of our state’s culinary birthright, the real action is happening on the specials menu that we find on chalkboards and markerboards upon entering our favorite barbecue joint or attending a pop-up. Here are some of the best new and traditional dishes I ate in 2022.
Khói Barbecue’s beef rib curry
Pitmaster Don Nguyen’s classic salt-and-pepper beef rib combined with a Thaistyle, coconut-milk-infused red curry sauce served over rice is an instant comfortfood classic. Keep an eye out for other Viet-Tex dishes, such as Brisket Bun Bo Hue, a spicy beef noodle soup. There are various locations of this pop-up restaurant, so follow his social media for menu availability and venues. instagram.com/khoibarbecue
Gatlin’s Fins & Feathers’ New Orleans-style BBQ shrimp
Sure, BBQ shrimp isn’t technically barbecue because it isn’t smoked, but this Gulf Coast classic is redolent of the best barbecue sauces, in this case, a rich and savory concoction based on fresh garlic, melted butter and Worcestershire sauce, among many other smoky spices like paprika and cayenne pepper. Available on the daily dinner menu at the Gatlin family’s
Independence Heights restaurant. 302 W. Crosstimbers; gatlinsfinsandfeathers.com
Burnt Bean Co.’s Tijuana chicken
Pitmaster Ernest Servantes smokes and grills a half chicken and then slathers on an inspired version of his own Alabama-style white sauce infused with cilantro and ancho chiles, which is then served with flash-fried corn tortillas. Strip off a chunk of chicken and skin, stuff into the tortilla and layer on the house-made salsa, charred jalapeños, pickled red onions and a squeeze of grilled-lime juice. Usually served as a Friday-only special, call ahead for availability. 108 S. Austin St., Seguin; burntbeanco.com
Interstellar BBQ’s beef short rib with chimichurri
The fragrant, garlicky green sauce known as a chimichurri is a staple on beef-laden South American menus. And for good reason — it adds an herbal counterpoint to the richness of the beef. Still, it’s a rare find in Texas barbecue, but this Austin-area joint offers it as the perfect accompaniment for their salt-andpepper beef chuck short ribs. Weekend special; call for availability. 12233 Ranch Road 620 N., Austin; interstellarbbq.com
Blood Bros. BBQ’s Ripper Hot Link Dog
This amped-up hot dog at Blood Bros. in Bellaire is an ingenious combination of flavors and textures. The pork-and-beef link is wrapped in crispy bacon and tucked into a toasted bun made at the Blood Bros.’ new bakery collaboration, LuLoo’s Day & Night. It’s then topped with a not-too-hot ghost-pepper relish infused with mustard and Steen’s syrup. It’s crispy, crunchy, sweet and savory all at the same time. Available daily. 5425 Bellaire Blvd.; bloodbrosbbq.com
James & Jon Barbeque’s breakfast tacos
If you’re ever in Beaumont and need a quick breakfast on-the-go, stop by this trailer for breakfast tacos featuring a superb selection of smoked meats. There’s a generously sized flour tortilla cradling pepper-flaked scrambled eggs, melted cheese and your choice of crispy strips of pork belly, chopped brisket and even a locally made boudin sausage. Available on daily breakfast menu. Check website for opening days and times. 890 N. 11th St., Beaumont; jamesandjonbbq.com
Bar-A-BBQ’s brisket (at top)
When it comes to straightup Central Texas-style brisket, this little trailer in Montgomery is currently making some of the best in the area. Get there early — pitmaster Cooper Abercrombie is only smoking a handful of briskets every weekend, and they sell out fast. Check Bar-A-BBQ’s Facebook page for its current location, as well as opening days and times. facebook.com/