Pumpkin cheesecake is surprisingly good served warm.

Start to finish: 2 hours (45 minutes active) Makes 16 servings

CRUST 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, plus extra for the pan 1¼ cups gingersnap cookie crumbs (made by pulsing about 25 cookies in a food processor until finely ground) ¼ cup packed dark brown sugar ¼ teaspoon table salt

FILLING 15-ounce can pumpkin purée 3 large eggs ½ cup packed dark brown sugar 2 tablespoons heavy cream 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ¼ cup bourbon, dark rum or cognac ½ cup granulated sugar 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1½ teaspoons cinnamon ¼ teaspoon nutmeg ½ teaspoon ground dry ginger ½ teaspoon ground allspice ½ teaspoon table salt Three 8-ounce packages ¹⁄3-less-fat cream cheese (Neufchatel), room temperature Vanilla ice cream or lightly sweetened whipped cream, to serve

Instructions: Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Brush the inside of a 9-inch springform pan with melted butter. To make the crust, in a medium bowl, stir together the 6 tablespoons of butter, the gingersnap crumbs, brown sugar and salt until combined well. Pour the crumb mixture into the pan and press it evenly over the bottom of the pan.

Bake on the oven’s middle shelf for 10 minutes. Transfer to a cake rack and cool for 30 minutes. Reduce the oven heat to 350 degrees. Line a mesh colander with a clean kitchen towel. Mound the pumpkin purée into the towel and set over a medium bowl. Bring the ends of the towel up and gently squeeze to remove excess water (you should be able to squeeze out about ¼ cup of liquid). Discard the liquid. Rinse and dry the bowl, then in it mix together the pumpkin, eggs, brown sugar, cream, vanilla and bourbon. Set aside.

In a large bowl, stir together the granulated sugar, cornstarch, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, allspice and salt. Add the cream cheese, then use an electric mixer on high to beat until smooth, about 3 minutes. Add the pumpkin mixture to the cream-cheese mixture and beat on low, just until combined. Bring a large kettle of water to a boil. Use foil to wrap the bottom and sides of the springform pan. Pour the filling into the pan. Fold a kitchen towel so it fits evenly in a roasting pan just a bit larger than the springform pan. Set the springform pan on top of the towel in the roasting pan.

Working quickly, pour enough boiling water into the larger pan to come halfway up the sides of the springform pan. Bake the cheesecake for 65 to 70 minutes, or until it is mostly set but still slightly jiggly at the center.

Spoon some of the cheesecake onto each serving plate and top with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a spoonful of whipped cream. Alternatively, if serving the cheesecake cold, transfer it to a rack, run a sharp knife around the edge and let it cool completely, about 4 hours, before covering with plastic wrap. Chill. To serve, cut into slices and top each slice with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a spoonful of whipped cream.

Nutrition info per serving: 290 calories; 150 calories from fat (52 percent of total calories); 17 g fat (9 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 85 mg cholesterol; 320 mg sodium; 26 g carbohydrate; 1 g fiber; 20 g sugar; 6 g protein.