Night Market

Fragrant Indian curries flavor Chinatown’s Night Market

THE CONCEPT

An Indian curry and grill restaurant, restaurateur Mike Tran’s third Chinatown eatery after Tiger Den and Mein. Eight curry dishes (Indian and Southeast Asian) are featured on a menu that also includes naan, grilled apps (such as masala paneer, chicken, five-spice rib-eye, tiger prawns and lamb chops) and potato-centric sides.

THE SPACE

The snug space, like Tiger Den, is mostly spare with an Asian pop art mural. Spherical metal pendant lamps dot the dark, industrial expanses of brick and wood. It’s an edgy, almost monochromatic look that lets the menu make most of the colorful fireworks.

THE FOOD

Chef/partner Rikesh Patel, who Houston foodies will remember from his Ambrosia restaurant, is back to his roots with intriguing curry dishes such as coconut-braised brisket with fresh pineapple and Thai chiles; on-the-bone goat sambal; prawns in coconut broth with lemongrass and jalapeño; chickpea masala; chicken tikka masala; and slow-braised pork and unripe bananas.

THE DRINKS

Beer and wine only.

THE WORD

“It’s a mishmash. It’s not traditional Indian or Northern Indian,” Patel said, describing his style of cooking. “It’s where the curry takes me.”

ONE MORE THING

Both Tran and Patel are graphic artists and designers. They think visually, which explains both the cool design of the space and the arresting presentation of the dishes.

THE DETAILS

9630 Clarewood, 713-4922835. Open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday.

Elizabeth Conley photos / Houston Chronicle Rikesh Patel is the chef/partner at Night Market in Chinatown.

Night Market’s mixed dal (lentils) is served in an edgy, snug dining room.

Madras salmon is one of the curry dishes offered at Night Market.

Braised goat curry is a signature dish at Night Market.

Keema fries are composed of ground brisket, mozzarella and white sauce.