Houston Chronicle

Fusion Taco

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THE CONCEPT

The second location of a locally owned, globally inspired taco shop. The new Heights-area outpost has the same look, vibe and menu as the original on Market Square downtown.

THE SPACE

Who could guess this hip space was once home to a quinceañer­a dress shop? Owners Julia Sharaby and chef David Grossman have turned the store into a spiffy counter-service restaurant with a full bar, mod furnishing­s and a gray/orange/black color scheme.

THE FOOD

Internatio­nal flavors find their way into corn tortillas (or grilled naan, depending on the preparatio­n): spicy lamb keema with Persian cucumber and tahini; crispy tofu with spicy peanut sauce and shredded cabbage; grilled Thai chicken with grilled onions and peanut sauce; tikka masala drizzled with crème fraîche; and spicy crispy falafel with a schmear of hummus and fresh tomato and cucumber. More TexMex and Gulf Coastsavvy options: tempura Gulf shrimp with wasabi ranch; Angus steak with black beans, guacamole and pico; barbecue pork with roasted corn salsa; blackened fish with pineapple salsa, avocado and chipotle crema; smoked brisket with salsa verde and cilantro; and chicken fried Gulf oysters with buttermilk ranch, celery root slaw and Frank’s Red Hot sauce.

THE DRINKS

Downtown has only beer and wine, but there’s a full bar in the Heights — try the Fusion Taco margarita.

ONE MORE THING

These are optimistic days for Fusion Taco. Sharaby says they are scouting more locations: “We’re looking to open many units,” she said. “We want to go further out with them.”

THE DETAILS

4706 N. Main, 713-422-2992; fusiontaco.com

 ?? Melissa Phillip / Houston Chronicle ?? Seared tuna salad at Fusion Taco
Melissa Phillip / Houston Chronicle Seared tuna salad at Fusion Taco
 ?? Melissa Phillip / Houston Chronicle ?? You’ll find counter service at the new Fusion Taco.
Melissa Phillip / Houston Chronicle You’ll find counter service at the new Fusion Taco.

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