Houston Chronicle

EXPLORING THE SOUND OF TASTE

- BY LAWRENCE ELIZABETH KNOX Lawrence Elizabeth Knox is a writer in Houston.

Composer Maxime Goulet had a delicious idea — to write a musical suite about chocolate, seguing the sounds through signatures that correspond with various types of chocolate.

Then he had an even better idea — to let audiences eat those chocolates while listening to the music.

“Symphonic Chocolates” is the Canadian composer’s resulting work, an all-encompassi­ng, multisenso­ry experience that has challenged the idea of a traditiona­l classical music concerts — and maybe even how to eat chocolate. On Sunday, four musicians — violinists Melissa Williams and Rachel Shepard, violist Lorento Golofeev and cellist Annamarie Reader — will perform the string quartet version of the Goulet’s suite at the Midtown Arts and Theater Center Houston as part of “Musical Parfait,” the latest concert in the River Oaks Chamber Orchestra’s “Unchambere­d” series.

The 12-minute suite consists of four movements, each of which evokes a particular flavor of chocolate — caramel, dark, mint and coffee — and, again, the audience is invited to eat the correspond­ing flavor while the music is playing. Araya Artisan Chocolate will provide the treats.

“What I found is that when you eat, almost all the senses are involved,” Goulet said.

A chocolatie­r must consider the taste, appearance, smell and texture or touch, but while biting into chocolate may emit a satisfying­ly crisp snap, the sound is not unique to any particular flavor.

“By adding the soundtrack to it, it makes it very complete,” Goulet said. “All the senses are involved, so it’s a very immersive experience.”

Featuring varying tempos and temperamen­ts, the piece takes audience members on an engaging journey through a lyrical melody resembling the creamy richness of drizzling caramel to an energetic allegro inspired by Brazil, the world’s largest coffee producer, and its upbeat samba rhythms.

In the middle movements, a dissonance in the music reflects the bitterness of dark chocolate, inciting visions of a seductive tango. The musicians then create an auditory sensation of the icy coldness of mint chocolate hitting the tongue — powerful enough to cause a chill to run up one’s spine. The sound, which is highpitche­d and metallic, is produced when violinists use effects like a tremolo, a rapid back and forth motion of the bow, Goulet said.

The interactio­n between sound and taste, Goulet believes, influences perception, and now, he has scientific reasoning to support his work. Charles Spence, a professor of experiment­al psychology at the University of Oxford, is a pioneer in gastrophys­ics, which examines influences behind eating habits. Spence led a study, published in the internatio­nal research journal “Appetite,” in which 116 participan­ts perceived the creaminess of two unknowingl­y identical chocolates while listening to two opposing soundtrack­s, and the music proved to change the perception of the chocolate’s consistenc­y.

The experiment was similar to the concept of Goulet’s tasting concert in many ways, and next summer, Spence and Goulet will both share their work at the Internatio­nal Multisenso­ry Research Forum in Toronto.

The Sunday concert marks Goulet’s first time working with ROCO, but it won’t be the last. He is composing a piano concerto inspired by a chess game for next season’s opening concert.

“I found it was like a perfect match,” he said of ROCO’s openess to the nontraditi­onal. “If we have a good idea, we’ll find a way to make it happen.”

 ?? Courtesy photo ?? ComposerMa­xime Goulet
Courtesy photo ComposerMa­xime Goulet

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