Maison Pucha Bistro
Heights spot delivers classic French fare with Ecuadoran twists
THE CONCEPT
A French restaurant in the Heights from chef Manuel Pucha, who previously worked at La Table, Bistro Moderne and Philippe Restaurant & Lounge. Pucha’s brothers, Victor, a French-trained pastry chef, and Cristian, a budding sommelier and bar manager, moved from New York to Houston to collaborate on the project.
THE SPACE
The new owners have taken the former Black & White restaurant and created a sunny, sophisticated dining room in shades of blue, white subway tile and whitewashed woods. There’s a dramatic open kitchen, two bars and a variety of seating configurations for 150 inside, as well as an inviting patio.
THE FOOD
Pucha’s menu is technique-driven French with a few flourishes of his native Ecuador. Starters include lobster bisque; lobster tortellini in a Thai lobster sauce; foie gras duo (seared and terrine) with a port wine reduction and brioche; French onion soup; and Ecuadoranstyle ceviche of lightly poached shrimp in citrus juices. Mains are classic bistro fare: steak frites (hanger with sauce Bearnasie); coq au vin; trout almandine; and a showy bouillabaisse with broth poured tableside. The dessert list is tres French, too — think Tarte Tatin, profiteroles and crème brûlée served with vanillaorange Madeleines.
THE DRINKS
The wine list has a French focus (Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone) but is also organized by varietal. Choose a grape you like, and you’ll find selections from regions in France, Italy, New Zealand and the United States. Craft cocktails include the Maximilion Affair (mezcal, elderflower liqueur, champagne, mole bitters) and the Heights Boulevardier (bourbon, Campari, sweet vermouth, Meyer lemon peel).
ONE MORE THING
The Puchas promise to bring more flavors and foods from Ecuador — native spices and vegetables — once the restaurant is properly established.
THE DETAILS
1001 Studewood, 713637-4976; maisonpucha. com. Open 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays, 5-11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, 5-9 p.m. Sundays.