Houston Chronicle

TEA IS SERVED — WITH CREATIVE FLAIR

- BY GREG MORAGO greg.morago@chron.com

Taking afternoon tea — that quintessen­tially British respite of tea, small savories, and wee cakes and tarts — can be quite civilized. But it can also be slightly fuddy-duddy. Except if you’re talking about two new tea services in Houston that have welcome shades of internatio­nal flair. Both Hotel Sorella at CityCentre and Yauatcha restaurant in the Galleria have begun teafocused dining options. Let’s take a look at both.

RADIO MILANO TEA AT HOTEL SORELLA

The service: A modern high tea with Italian influence in the secondleve­l lobby lounge at the chic CityCentre hotel. The hotel’s restaurant, Radio Milano, is responsibl­e for the service offered at three levels: three canapes and four sweets for $25; four canapes and four sweets for $35; six canapes and five sweets for $45.

The tea: Featured teas — from English Breakfast and chamomile to Earl Grey and vert jasmine — are from the French Dammann Freres, the same tea served on French ocean liners.

The food: Canape options include bruschetta with beef and tomato; antipasto skewers of ham, fontina and olives; ahi tuna carpaccio; skewers of prosciutto and melon; smoked salmon with dill cream; mini crabcakes; and grilled-cheese sandwiches of mozzarella and roasted red pepper. The sweets side features tiny apple tarts, crème brûlée, pistachio financier, tea cakes, scones and macarons.

The drinks: A new list of high-tea cocktails has been created around song titles from 1950s pop music. “The Great Pretender” has lemoninfus­ed Absolut Elyx vodka with Italian liqueur, curacao, prosecco and Madeira. “Just One of Those Things” features gin, mezcal, crème de violette, Lillet Blanc and an edible flower. The “Don’t Be Cruel” is a mix of aged rum, Aperol and chocolate and orange bitters.

The details: Radio Milano at Hotel Sorella, 800 Sorella Court. High tea available daily, noon-4 p.m. For reservatio­ns, call 713-8273545.

YUM CHA AT YAUATCHA

The service: Yum Cha, which translates to “drink tea,” includes a choice of tea coupled with chef-selected steamed and fried dim sum, and a choice of patisserie­crafted dessert.

The tea: This sleek import bills itself as a Chinese dim sum teahouse, so it stands to reason the restaurant takes its tea seriously. Yum Cha tea offerings include jasmine green tea, Lapsang Souchong smoked black tea, emerald green tea and a roasted Oolong. There’s also a tea available only at Yauatcha Houston: Blue Mountain black tea with red grapefruit rinds.

The food: The selections of steamed dim sum include shrimp shu mai, pork and prawn shu mai, and shrimp and Chinese chive dumpling. Fried options are duck pumpkin puff and crispy pork and scallion puff. Dessert is a choice of the gorgeous Raspberry Delice (raspberry and chocolate mousse with a lychee panna cotta center) or the Tropical Dome (coconut, passion fruit and pineapple). Yum Cha also has a vegetarian option. The drinks: You can order any of the cocktails on the menu but why not go with Champagne or sparkling wine? Yauatcha offers a selection that includes Louis Roederer Brut Premier for $20 a glass, Perrier-Jouet Bell Epoque for $36 a glass and Krug Grande Cuvee for $360 a bottle. The details: Yauatcha, 5045 Westheimer. Tea service is offered 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday through Friday, $30 per person. For more informatio­n call 713-357-7588.

 ?? Koshi Le ?? Radio Milano at the Hotel Sorella at CityCentre has launched a modern high-tea service.
Koshi Le Radio Milano at the Hotel Sorella at CityCentre has launched a modern high-tea service.

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