Turtle Soup

Adapted from Carl Walker’s “Brennan’s of Houston in Your Kitchen” Prep time: 20 minutes Cook time: About 2 hours Makes about 2½ quarts, 8-10 portions

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons

vegetable oil 1½ pounds turtle meat, chili or

large grind (see note) 2 tablespoons Creole seasoning

(Zatarain’s or similar) 1 cup finely chopped onion (½ a medium onion or 1 small onion) 1 cup finely chopped green bell

pepper (1 medium pepper) ½ cup finely chopped celery (about two medium ribs) tablespoon minced garlic (about two medium cloves) ½ teaspoon crushed dried thyme 2 bay leaves cups veal stock (available frozen at Central Market, see note) ¾ cup tomato purée ½ cup all-purpose flour 1 cup dry sherry 2 tablespoons Louisiana hot pepper sauce (Crystal brand recommended) 2 tablespoons Worcestershire

sauce Juice of 1 lemon (about ¾

ounce) Five ounces fresh spinach, stems removed, washed, patted dry, coarsely chopped 2 hard-cooked eggs, finely

chopped Dry sherry for garnish (optional)

Instructions: Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large stockpot over medium-high heat. Brown meat along with Creole seasoning; cook about 20 minutes, or until liquid is almost evaporated.

Add onion, bell pepper, celery and garlic while stirring constantly. Add thyme and bay leaves; reduce heat to medium and sauté (stirring frequently) 20 to 25 minutes, or until vegetables are tender and start to caramelize. Watch the pan and if things start to brown heavily, deglaze pan with water, scraping up any brown bits that stick to the bottom.

Add stock and tomato purée; bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer uncovered 30 minutes, periodically skimming away any fat that rises to the top.

While stock is simmering, make roux. Heat ½ cup oil over medium heat in a small saucepan. Add flour, a little at a time, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon and being careful not to burn the roux.

After flour is added, cook about 3 minutes, until roux smells nutty, is pale in color and the consistency of wet sand.

Using a whisk, vigorously stir roux into soup, a little at a time to prevent lumping. Simmer uncovered about 25 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking on the bottom.

Add sherry and bring to a boil. Add hot sauce and Worcestershire; reduce heat and simmer 30 minutes or until starchy flavor is gone, skimming any fat or foam that rises to the top.

Add lemon juice; return to a simmer 15 to 20 minutes.

Add spinach and chopped egg; bring to a simmer and adjust seasoning with seafood seasoning or salt. Remove bay leaves before ladling into bowls.

Serve, garnished with a bit of finely chopped egg and minced parsley or celery leaves, if desired. A final splash of sherry isn’t absolutely required, but it sure is nice.

Note: You can find turtle meat at Pete’s Fine Meats, 5509 Richmond, 713-782-3470, or substitute ground veal or beef for the turtle. If you cannot find and do not want to make veal stock, you can substitute low sodium chicken stock. For better texture, we suggest sprinkling a few packets of unflavored gelatin over the stock before adding; storebought stock is lacking in gelatin, which gives good stock its body and texture.