Bear Dalton’s picks for French bubbly
Spec’s buyer raises a toast to these four
Native Houstonian Bear Dalton has worked in the wine business for 40 years — 30 as a wine educator. He became a fine-wine buyer for Spec’s in 1996 after postings with multiple local distributors and has an extensive knowledge of and a special affinity for champagne. In time for New Year’s Eve, we asked him to pick his favorite French fizz at a wide variety of prices, from the luxury cuvée category to bargain bubbles.
Barons de Rothschild Blanc de Blancs NV
Dalton’s score: 96 A joint venture of the five branches of the Rothschild family, it’s 100 percent chardonnay from Grand Cru’s in the Cote du Blanc (Avize, Cramant, Mesnil-Sur-Oger, Oger and Vertus). Forty percent of the cure is reserve wine, and it ages on the lees for 48 months. “Pale-gold straw in color, it’s dry, medium-bodied with fresh acidity,” Dalton says, calling it “classic chardonnay champagne with citrus fruit, lots of freshness, elegant texture and real complexity and depth. It’s a sort of blanc de blancs version of Krug’s Grand Cuvee.” Price: $94.99
2006 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs
Dalton’s score: 98 The base wine is 100 percent free-run chardonnay fermented with partial malolactic fermentation and aged in tanks and barrels (5 percent of cuvée in new French oak barrels). After the second (in bottle) fermentation, it ages 10 years on the lees. “The result,” Dalton explains, “is a wine with the focus and citrus of a blanc de blancs,” but the aforementioned wine-making “pulls it back toward the stylistic middle (think Dom Perignon) with tree-fruit flavors, defining minerality and plenty of toast. A delicious champagne that transcends the more typical aperitif style of blanc de blancs.” Price: $159.29
Castelnau Brut Reserve NV
Dalton’s score: 92+ A blend of chardonnay (43 percent), pinot meunier (47 percent) and pinot noir (10 percent), it contains 15 percent reserve wines and ages almost seven years on the lees with a dosage of 8 grams per liter. Dalton notes the “rich straw color” and how it’s “fully sparkling; dry, medium-bodied with fresh acidity and scant phenolics. Rich and toasty with red fruits and enough citrus and a creamy texture. Lovely in the mouth, the richness makes it an incredible value.”
Price: $37.99
Abel Charlot NV
Dalton’s score: 90+ A blend of 15.5 percent chardonnay, 38.5 percent pinot noir and 46 percent pinot meunier with 22 percent reserve wines, it was aged 24 months on the lees and dosed to 10 grams per liter. “Straw color with hint of pale copper and fully sparkling; dry, medium-bodied with fresh acidity and scant phenolics,” Dalton notes. “Toasty, rich, creamy with fine subtle red fruit with citrus and toast. Has an earthy minerality and more richness than expected. Easy to drink and like. It’s from the Castelnau Co-op but not made by Castelnau.” Price: $19.94