Patience pays when making turtle soup
One million seven hundred fifty thousand. That’s a big number on its own but downright staggering when you realize that’s probably about how many bowls of Turtle Soup au Sherry that Brennan’s of Houston has ladled out over its half-century or so. Thirty five thousand bowls make their way across the pass every year, each deep and mysterious, splashed with sherry as the final grace note. It’s a perfect opening of a celebratory meal with family and friends.
It’s a beguiling soup — elegant and earthy, anchored by a deep and resonant thrum that speaks of land and sea. There’s a ribbon of heat that catches just so at the back of the throat, enough to light a spark but not a fire. If you taste down through the layers, you find sweetness from the Creole “trinity” of onion, bell pepper and celery. The soup is hearty with turtle meat, but silky from the long and careful cook. That final splash of sherry added tableside enhances the nutty notes and adds a lifting hit of acidity and refinement.
There’s a lot going on in that bowl, and a lot goes into getting it there. That doesn’t mean you can’t make this elegant and engaging dish at home. But there are a few things to keep in mind.
For starters, this dish rewards preparation. Have your mise en place ready before you ever put a pan on the fire. You don’t want to be two hours into a batch, about to pop the cork on your sherry, and suddenly realize that you have to take the stems off the spinach.
Take your time with browning the turtle meat. It brings a lot of moisture, and you need to evaporate most of it, both for a deeper flavor and for proper consistency. The same applies to sautéing the trinity. I like to allow it to caramelize a few times over its time in the pan, deglazing with just a splash of water and scraping up all the brown bits stuck to the bottom each time; this adds significant depth and richness.
Finally, take care with your roux. Don’t burn it (you want it to be just a few shades darker than pale straw), and add it to the soup very carefully, whisking the entire time to ensure a silky smooth texture and proper thickening without any lumps.
The recipe looks like a lot of work but it’s mostly done up front. Set aside a couple of hours for this one, so you can stay nearby and keep an eye on things. Maybe have a nip of sherry while it’s simmering.