The chill in the air signals it’s time to sip one of these worthy ports.
As I write this, there’s a bracing chill in the air, which means it’s finally port season. But we Houstonians have to love the irony of these famously dark, sweet and heavy dessert wines from Portugal. Although they don’t work very well in our summertime climate, they are made from red fruit grown in the Upper Douro Valley that ripens under some of the hottest and most difficult vineyard conditions on the planet.
Legally, there are 82 grape varietals that can be blended in ports, but the most commonly used are touriga nacional, touriga franca, tinta cão, tinta francisca, tinta roriz, tinta barroca, tinta amarella and sousão. The wine produced is fortified by the addition of a neutral grape spirit called aguardente, which stops the fermentation, leaving considerable residual sugar in the juice while raising the alcohol content.
The simplest port is called ruby, but as the Fonseca Bin 27 has shown for decades, these can be excellent. The other Fonseca mentioned is designated “Late Bottle Vintage,” a ruby port made from a single year’s harvest that’s bottled after four to six years of aging in oak. Tawny ports are simply ruby ports that have been aged longer in wood, causing the wine’s color to evolve from red to brick red, ultimately turning deep amber or even mahogany.
All ports work well with dried nuts and fruits, blue cheeses — English Stilton is the classic pairing — and desserts such as tarte tatin or those with chocolate, coffee and vanilla flavors.
Fonseca Bin 27
Overall score: 19.1 (9.1 for quality, 10 for value) Our tasters: Gave it a unanimous recommendation with five scores of at least 9. “Spicy, rich, round and fruity.” My score: 8.9. “Fruit forward and delicious.” Winery/vineyards/
winemaking: The Bin 27 was first made more than a century ago and was intended for family consumption only. Commercial production began in 1972. It’s made from grapes grown in Fonseca’s own vineyards in the Cima Corgo and is blended from reserve wines selected for their intense fruit character, then spends four years in large wood vats before bottling. Alcohol: 20 percent Critical acclaim: Wine Spectator awarded a score of 90. Price: $15.99 Also recommended: 2011 Fonseca Late Bottle Vintage Unfiltered, $24.99, which received four scores of at least 9
Niepoort 10 Years Old Tawny
Overall score: 18.4 (8.9 for quality, 9.5 for value) Our tasters: Gave it a unanimous recommendation with three scores of at least 9. “Brandied cherries. Finishes long.” My score: 8.9. “Elegant and complex.” Winery/vineyards/ winemaking: The Niepoorts have been in the port business since 1842. Dirk Niepoort, who has headed the company since 2005, and his father, Rolf, purchased two vineyards in Cima Corgo in the mid-’80s. Fifteen hectares were newly planted to go with 10 hectares of 60-yearold vines. The Niepoort cellars are in the center of Villa Nova de Gaia. Alcohol: 20 percent Critical acclaim: Wine Advocate Robert Parker awarded a score of 91. Price: $39.89
Sandeman Tawny
Overall score: 18.9 (8.9 for quality, 10 for value) Our tasters: Gave it a unanimous recommendation with four scores of 9. “Brandied cherries, light and cheerful.” My score: 9. “Red fruit and chewy caramel and hazelnuts.” Winery/vineyards/ winemaking: From one of the great old Port houses — Sandeman was founded in 1790 — it’s made from a selection of several vintages’ lighter wines, then aged in small oak casks. Alcohol: 19.5 percent Price: $13.39 Also unanimously recommended: Sandeman 10 Years Old Tawny Port, $32.79, which received three scores of at least 9.
Quinta do Noval Black
Overall score: 19 (9 for quality, 10 for value) Our tasters: Gave it a unanimous recommendation with four scores of at least 9. “Red cherries and coffee notes.” My score: 9. “Ripe, round and chewy.” Winery/vineyards/ winemaking: The name “Quinto do Noval” can be found in land registries as far back as 1715, but the modern winery was essentially launched in 1894, when the phylloxera-devastated vineyards were replanted. The Black is a modern-style port, both fresh and fruity, made from wines that miss the final cut for Noval’s vintage releases. Alcohol: 19.5 percent
Critical acclaim: Parker’s Wine Advocate awarded a score of 90. Price: $20.39