Houston Chronicle

Sommelier’s pick

- Dale Robertson

Who: David Keck, proprietor of Goodnight Charlie’s

Background: In May 2016, the Vermont native became one of only 236 certified Master Sommeliers in the world. He’d previously begun the Houston chapter of his career when he helped open Uchi, then was the face of Camerata. As a trained opera singer, he’s ever liable to step up to the mic with the band at Goodnight Charlie’s, his new Montrose honky-tonk. However, he hasn’t moved on altogether from the super-serious side of wine, insisting a new project is in the works now that he’s got the boot-scootin’ joint up and running.

What: Duchman Family Winery Vermentino and McPherson Cellars ‘Les Copains’ Red

Why: It just made sense at every level, Keck explains, insisting he gave some “serious thought” to the matter because Goodnight Charlie’s “focus was going to be beer and whiskey. But, as wine has been my area of study for many years, it was obviously very important to choose something I could stand behind and feel good about pouring. As a result, I reached out to Stan Duchman (a Houston cardiologi­st whose winery is in Driftwood) and Kim McPherson (a Lubbock winemaking legend) to do some Texas wine in kegs. The Duchman Vermentino has always been a standout in the Texas scene as a clean, dry, aromatic and delicious wine. A grape more familiar to Italians, particular­ly Sardinians, it does well in the Texas Hill Country. McPherson Cellars’ ‘Les Copains’ Red is another exemplary Texas wine. A blend of varieties famous in the Southern Rhône Valley of France, it is medium-bodied, with beautiful red and black fruit and demonstrat­es how successful Rhône varieties can be in the Texas High Plains. They both pair perfectly with our tacos and two-steppin’.”

Price: Both $7 for a glass at Goodnight Charlie’s, 2531 Kuester

 ?? Marie D. De Jesús photos / Houston Chronicle ?? Master Sommelier David Keck serves two kegged wines, the McPherson Cellars ‘Les Copains’ Red and the Duchman Family Winery Vermentino, at his new honky-tonk Goodnight Charlie’s.
Marie D. De Jesús photos / Houston Chronicle Master Sommelier David Keck serves two kegged wines, the McPherson Cellars ‘Les Copains’ Red and the Duchman Family Winery Vermentino, at his new honky-tonk Goodnight Charlie’s.
 ??  ?? Keck’s expertise helped him find the right wines to serve along with beer and whiskey at Goodnight Charlie’s in Montrose.
Keck’s expertise helped him find the right wines to serve along with beer and whiskey at Goodnight Charlie’s in Montrose.

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