Café Poêtes
THE CONCEPT
A tres chic eclair shop in Montrose offering sweet and savory pastries with imaginative twists. Owner Karine Favre-Massartic, who is from Paris, loves French poetry (hence the name) and the work of new-wave patisseries in France that are reimagining eclairs as edible art.
THE SPACE
The 1,500-square-foot building, which Favre-Massartic helped design, was inspired by Orangerie du Parc de Bagatelle in Paris. French windows allow plenty of natural light. The limestone floors feature cabochon design; the round bistro tables and lattice-back Louis XV-inspired chairs come from France; and there’s a smart pewter-topped bar facing the coffee- and tea-preparation area. It’s all meant to evoke Paris in the 19th century — the era when the French poetry she adores was written.
THE FOOD
Favre-Massartic hired pastry chef Loic Bret, formerly of L’Atelier d l’Éclair in Paris, to travel to Houston to train her pastry chefs. The menu includes jewellike sweet varieties (salted caramel, vanilla pecan, dark chocolate, lemon meringue; $5.50-$6) and savory options ($9.50$10.50 with a salad) such as smoked salmon and artichoke version with a gravlax sauce; chicken and herbs with arugula and balsamic sauce; and a Houston-savvy Éclair Pho filled with marinated beef brisket, pickled carrots and arugula and a special phobroth-flavored sauce. Also on offer: house-made croissants, gougeres, quiche and a beet and goat cheese salad.
THE DRINKS
Assorted teas, coffee and a rich hot chocolate with a chocolate floater that, when sunk into the hot ganache, “blooms” like a flower with buoyant marshmallow petals. The wine list is heavy on French wineries employing organic and biodynamic practices — an early afternoon might call for a glass of Roger Coulon champagne ($24), a crisp Domaine Raimbault sancerre ($14) or a spicy Cotes du Rhone from Domaine la Manarine ($12).
ONE MORE THING
Favre-Massartic hopes to expand Café Poêtes’ opening hours as well as its menu, perhaps including more Tex-ified eclairs (think barbecue, Mexicanand Gulf seafood-inspired versions).
DETAILS
122 W. Gray, 832-527-7147; cafepoetes.com. Open 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays, 1-8 p.m. Sundays.