Houston Chronicle

CREAMY RAMP PESTO PASTA

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Time: About 30 minutes

Yield: 6 servings

1 large bunch of ramps (about 1/2 pound), cleaned, roots trimmed, bulbs and stems separated from leaves

Zest and juice of 1 lemon

1/4 cup shelled pistachios (preferably the bright green Sicilian variety), lightly toasted

1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt, to taste

3/4 cup bufala ricotta, fresh cow’s milk ricotta or mascarpone (6 ounces)

1 pound fusilli lunghi or bucatini

Freshly ground pink peppercorn­s, for serving (or use ground black pepper)

1: Bring a large pot of water to a boil for pasta. Set aside an ice-water bath in a medium bowl.

2:Blanch the ramp leaves in boiling water for 15 seconds. Remove with a spider or slotted spoon and immediatel­y plunge them into the ice bath. Drain the leaves and dry on a kitchen towel. Tops should be bright and vibrant green in color.

3: Add the blanched leaves to a food processor with 1/4 of the ramp bulbs and stems, plus the lemon zest and juice, the pistachios and the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Pulse to finely chop, and stream in the olive oil until the pesto comes together into a thick sauce. Taste and, if desired, add more bulbs and stems, a few at a time, then add salt to taste and pulse to combine. (Reserve the remaining bulbs and stems for use in dressings, sautéed vegetable dishes or eggs.)

4: Place the ricotta or mascarpone in large mixing bowl.

5: Salt the pasta water and cook pasta about 1 minute less than package directions for al dente. Just before draining, remove 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water and add to the ricotta or mascarpone to soften and loosen the cheese. Add the ramp pesto and stir to combine. Drain pasta, add to sauce and toss to coat. Transfer pasta to a serving dish or individual bowls, and top with a generous amount of pink peppercorn.

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